Check out my full review of our first stay in Sarlat-la-Caneda 👉​

What to Do and See in Sarlat

Follow the Self-Guided Walking Tour

I love audio walking tours. I always follow those of Navaway, a french app. They do a great work!

Here are all the stops, in order:

Place André Malraux → Histoire → Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs → Place de la Petite Rigaudie → Fontaine Sainte-Marie → Place du Marché aux Oies → Le Badaud → Marché Couvert → Place de la Liberté → Place du Peyrou → Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos → Ancien Hôtel de Ville → Cour des Fontaines → Statue de la Boétie → Rue de la République

You can walk this loop in under two hours.

Do it on your first morning, it helps you understand the town.

The Stops Worth Lingering At

Place du Marché aux Oies

This is the one. A small, impeccably preserved medieval square with three bronze geese in the centre (the Dordogne takes its duck and goose obsession very seriously).

It looks like a film set. It looks like someone decided to build the most perfect small square in France and then just… left it there.

The frustrating thing — and I mean this as a compliment — is that it’s almost impossible to photograph well. It’s too small, too three-dimensional, too there.

Every photo I’ve taken of it looks flat compared to the experience of standing in it. That difficulty is part of what makes it special. Some places refuse to be reduced to an image.

Go early, when it’s quiet.

Rue de la Salamandre

One of the most charming streets in the old town.

This is where you’ll find La Gueule & Le Gosier, a restaurant I always recommend.

The street itself has that particular quality Sarlat does best: medieval bones dressed in daily life. Flower pots on windowsills, the smell of something cooking, cats on doorsteps.

Don’t rush through it to get somewhere else.

Saint Marie Church and the Glass Elevator

Most people miss the glass elevator in the church tower.

It takes you above the rooftops for a view over the old town that really shows you the layout.

You’ll see lauze stone rooftops in every direction and the town’s medieval shape. It’s completely worth it.

Check the schedule at the entrance because it’s not always open.

Jardin des Éneus

Behind the cathedral, hidden between the old walls, this garden is Sarlat’s best-kept secret.

Locals come here to picnic, watch the fireworks on 14 July, or just sit for an hour with no plan and feel like they’ve found the real town.

Most visitors walk straight past the entrance. Don’t.

This is a great spot to picnic, as it’s a lot more calmer than the rest of the town.

Manoir de Gisson

This beautiful medieval manor house is just a few minutes’ walk from the main square. Inside, you’ll find a museum of clothes and textiles from medieval times through the 18th century.

The exhibit is genuinely interesting and better than you might expect.

The building itself is worth seeing, and the courtyard’s architecture alone will make you pause.

The Truffle Museum

It’s right next door to the Manoir, on the same street. You’ll smell it before you see it.

The black truffle is at the heart of Périgord Noir cuisine, and this museum does it justice.

On good days, you can try free tastings at the front door. Even if there aren’t any, go inside. It’s a small but surprisingly educational visit.

Fontaine Sainte-Marie

You’ll probably hear this place before you notice it.

Tucked beneath a Gothic arch on Rue des Consuls, the Fontaine Sainte-Marie was once the only water source in all of Sarlat. A staircase leads down into the cool stone grotto, where water still flows beneath a small statue of the Virgin Mary.

It’s one of those quiet corners that makes Sarlat feel frozen in time.

Travelers used to stop here to refresh themselves before continuing their journey, and many would throw coins into the water while making a wish.

Honestly? You should do the same. It feels like the kind of place where wishes are supposed to work.

Chez Piero — The Cheese Stop

I always go here. Always. It used to be a restaurant that served only cheese, which was one of the most original ideas in Sarlat, but now it’s a cheese shop.

That’s a bit sad, but the shop is excellent.

Buy the goat cheese meringue.

I’m serious.

It’s the best thing I’ve eaten in Sarlat, and I’ve tried a lot of great food here. One warning: don’t leave it in a hot car. It melts embarrassingly fast.

Visit the Saturday Market

Sarlat’s Saturday market is consistently rated among the best in France. That is high praise in a country that takes markets very seriously.

It fills the entire old town center, including Place de la Liberté, Place du Marché aux Oies, and all the streets in between.

Local farmers sell foie gras, truffles, walnuts, duck confit, strawberries, cheese, fresh bread, and jam. Everything the Périgord is known for comes together in one place, on one morning.

Arrive before 9am. By 10am you are shuffling, not walking. By 11am it is genuinely unpleasant if you’re not good with crowds.

The Wednesday market is smaller but still worth visiting. It’s also much easier to walk through.

The Wednesday market is smaller but easier (less crowded).

Where to eat

La Gueule & Le Gosier — Rue de la Salamandre. Charming street, good food, the kind of place you walk past and immediately want to go inside.

Chez Piero — Buy the goat cheese meringue. Already mentioned. Will mention again.

For a special dinner, Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac, just 10 minutes from Sarlat, is one of the best places to eat in the Périgord Noir. The chef uses local, seasonal produce in a beautiful old mill by the river. It’s worth planning your trip around.

I always eat breakfast at the Saturday market.

I get bread from a local baker, cheese from Chez Piero, and strawberries from the best-looking stand. Find a bench in Place du Marché aux Oies at 8:30am and take your time eating.

Using Sarlat as a Base for the Dordogne Valley

This is where Sarlat really stands out.

The town is at the center of what locals call the “golden triangle” of Périgord Noir. It’s 30 minutes from the prehistoric caves of the Vézère Valley and 15 minutes from the most spectacular castles along the Dordogne River.

If you’re planning a longer trip, the full Dordogne Valley guide covers itineraries from 3 to 10 days, kayaking routes, the best castles to visit, and which prehistoric cave to prioritize. (It’s Font-de-Gaume, so book as soon as your dates are confirmed.)

I already stayed in Beynac-et-Cazenac and in Castelnaud, too. I love them for their charm and their proximity to the river. They both make great bases for kayaking the Dordogne.

But, sadly, they lack in restaurants and options. It’s a lot harder to find something that suits you (and has room for you) in the villages around the river than in Sarlat itself.

Staying in Sarlat also means you can walk to your restaurant, a thing that is almost impossible in the other villages.

You can use this map to compare princes on different platforms.

Shop in the Artisanal Boutiques

The streets of Sarlat are home to some wonderful artisan shops.

These are not the usual tourist souvenir shops you see in bigger French cities. Instead, real artisans sell quality items like clothing, art, ceramics, and jewelry.

Budget time to browse. You might find something special.

Take a History Guided Tour with Tastings

If you want more context than just wandering, this is one of the best experiences to book in Sarlat.

This private walking tour combines history with tastings, which honestly makes perfect sense in a place like the Dordogne.

A local guide takes you through the old town, pointing out details you’d completely miss on your own—hidden corners, small architectural clues, and stories behind the main landmarks like the cathedral, the goose square, and the old ramparts.

The real highlight comes at the end.

Depending on the day, you’ll finish with a tasting at the market or in local producer shops. Think foie gras, charcuterie, cheeses, and walnut cake, paired with a glass of walnut wine (a local specialty you’ll see everywhere once you know about it).

It lasts around 1.5 to 2 hours and works especially well if it’s your first time in Sarlat—you get both the history and a proper introduction to the region’s food in one go.

book your history and tasting tour in Sarlat

take a canoe trip on the most beautiful site in France

If you do one activity outside Sarlat, make it this.

Canoeing on the Dordogne River is one of the most beautiful experiences in France. You float past castles like Beynac and Castelnaud, with cliffs and villages rising around you—it feels unreal.

It’s easy, relaxing, and doesn’t require experience. Just book a half-day route and go at your own pace.

I have a full guide on this, but if you’re short on time: just do it.

book your canoe day here

How Much Time Do You Need

2–3 days is a must, the more, the better

Day 1: explore Sarlat
Day 2: castles + river
Day 3: caves or slow day

When to Visit Sarlat

Best: May–June, September
Peak: July–August (crowded)
Winter: quiet but many closures

My advice is to visit twice, on different moments of the day:

• 8am → empty streets
• 8pm → golden light (and great vibes)

That’s the real Sarlat.

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The Honest Truth About Sarlat

Sarlat gets crowded.

Especially in summer. Especially on Saturdays.

If you’re expecting a quiet medieval town in July… this isn’t it.

But here’s why it still works:

The town is big enough to absorb the crowds.

And when they leave?

It becomes something else entirely.

Empty streets. Warm light. Silence.

That’s the Sarlat you’ll remember.

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Final Thoughts on Visiting Sarlat

Sarlat isn’t subtle.

It’s dramatic, preserved, and unapologetically beautiful.

Yes, it’s popular. Yes, it’s busy.

But if you time it right, slow down, and stay at least two nights…

It becomes one of the most memorable places in France.

Come for the market.

Stay for the evenings.