I didn’t plan to fall in love with Amboise.

My then-boyfriend (now husband) was driving me to meet his parents in Beaugency — a town I’d never heard of — and he said, “want to stop in Amboise on the way?”

I said sure, mostly because I didn’t know what else to say.

And then I saw the château sitting above the rooftops, the Loire stretching out below it, the cobblestones catching the afternoon light.

I’ve been back dozens of times since. I got married in this region. My in-laws live 30 minutes away. And out of every town in the Loire Valley, Amboise is the one I keep bringing people to when I want them to get it.

Not Tours. Not Blois. Amboise.

And yes — I know it’s the smallest of the three. I know it has fewer restaurants. I know it gets crowded in summer.

I’m recommending it anyway.

It’s not just the beauty of the château above the rooftops or the fact that Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years here.

It’s that Amboise feels real.

And for a first trip to the Loire Valley, I honestly think there’s nowhere better to stay.

---

Why Amboise, Specifically?

Most Loire Valley guides will tell you to stay in Tours, which is practical and well-connected, or in Blois, which is central and has good markets. Both are good choices.

But for a first visit, and really for any visit, I recommend Amboise.

Here’s why:

You wake up and the château is already there, above the rooftops, reflected in the Loire.

You walk out of your hotel and you’re on a cobblestone street lined with boulangeries and wine shops.

Two of the valley’s most fascinating sites — Château Royal d’Amboise and Clos Lucé — are within walking distance of each other.

And from Amboise, you’re 15 minutes from Chenonceau, 40 minutes from Chambord, and 20 minutes from Chaumont-sur-Loire.

The logistics are genuinely excellent.

But it’s the atmosphere that draws people in. Amboise feels like a village with a royal history, not a tourist destination that’s been polished too much.

Just keep in mind that in July and August, tour buses from Paris arrive early and the main street gets crowded.

If you visit in peak summer, stay close to the château and start your days early. Spring and autumn are the best times to be in Amboise.

Parking and logistics or how to even get here

One parking note before you get there: don’t try to park in Amboise itself.

Give yourself extra time if you’re visiting in July or August.

If you’re staying here and have a hotel with parking, take advantage of that! It’s priceless!

If not, there are parking just outside the fortified walls. The ones where you could easier find a place are the ones that are a bit further away from the center, as everyone tries to park along the main road.

Try Parking des Quais or this other free parking (I always find a place here, even in August, and it’s really not that far from the town).

---

What to Do in Amboise

Château Royal d’Amboise

I love this castle because of its size. It’s small, it’s intimate, and it has that specific Loire Valley storybook quality that makes you forget what year you’re in. (You will always know you’re in France though. There’s no way around that.)

Before you even go in, do yourself a favour: view it from across the Loire River first.

The whole picture — the old town rooftops, the castle perched on top of it all, the river in the foreground — it’s the image of the Loire Valley itself. Please don’t miss it trying to find a parking.

Park and then walk over the river, trust me.

Once inside, the château unfolds in two wings.

The older Charles VIII wing — he was born here, grew up here, and came back from Italy with a whole team of artists to transform the place — has an open arcade gallery facing the Loire and a salle des gardes supported by a Gothic column shaped like a palm tree.

The Renaissance wing, built under Louis XII and extended by François I°, holds the grand chambre d’apparat with its Aubusson tapestries, and the Henri II room hung with Flemish tapestries from Brussels and Tournai.

The Orléans apartments show the château’s later life, redecorated in the 19th-century style of Louis-Philippe.

The castle is quite small, so take the audio guide — it makes a real difference.

The stories it tells reveal details you’d walk straight past otherwise. One of my favourites: there’s a painting in the castle showing Leonardo da Vinci dying in the arms of the king, right here in Amboise.

According to the audio guide, the whole thing was commissioned just to show off that Leonardo had lived here. Quite the flex. The original painting is now in the Louvre — I actually wrote about it in my 2-hour Louvre guide.

Budget around 30 to 40 minutes for the castle itself.

👉​ Book tickets in advance in high season

Leonardo Da Vinci’s grave

Don’t miss the small chapel overlooking the town.

This small flamboyant Gothic chapel, perched on the very edge of the ramparts, is allegedly where Leonardo da Vinci is buried. I say allegedly because my husband is deeply unconvinced by this claim.

I’ll let you form your own opinion — and let me know what you decide.

What’s not disputed: the chapel was closed for renovation for the last three years and only reopened in 2025. So if you visited Amboise before and skipped it because it was shut, now is the time to go back.

The place is small and feels intimate, but its position towards the town and being able to see it from everywhere, marks its importance.

You’ll find it on the left of the domain, the moment you enter the castle grounds. From up there, it can be easy to miss. Just keep in mind to look after it once you’re up on the grounds, access is not possible from the town itself.

The Gardens

This is where Amboise surprises people.

Walk all the way to the end of the park. The topiary here (vegetation cut into shapes) reminds me of the Jardins de Marqueyssac in the Dordogne, that same combination of precision and wildness.

On one side of the gardens you have views over the Loire River. On the other, you’re looking down over the old town rooftops. Both are spectacular.

One more thing: there are decorative picture frames placed around the domain, positioned perfectly for photos. They’re free to use, completely silly, and genuinely great fun. My sisters and I spent way too long finding them all. Budget time for this.

Plan around 40 to 60 minutes for the gardens — more if you’re a photographer or if you take the frame-hunting seriously.

You’ll end your visit by the Tour des Minimes — a massive round tower at the very end of your visit, with a helical ramp wide enough for horses and carriages to climb straight up to the terraces.

I stood there wondering how they built all of this so high, and then found out: horses. Obviously horses. But seeing that ramp in person makes it click in a way that no explanation quite does.

Practical info

Open daily:

• July–August 9h–19h
• April–June 9h–18h30,
• September to mid-October 9h–18h
• mid-October to early November 9h–17h
• November–December 9h–12h30 and 14h–16h30
• January 10h–12h30 and 14h–16h30, February 9h–17h, March 9h–17h30.

👉​ Book tickets in advance in high season

Clos Lucé — Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Home

Five minutes on foot from the château, through the park, is Clos Lucé — the manor house where Leonardo da Vinci lived from 1516 until his death on 2 May 1519.

He came at the invitation of François I°, who installed him here with a generous pension and complete freedom to think, invent, and paint as he pleased.

He was 64 years old, and he spent his last three years here doing exactly that.

Walking through the house is a different experience to visiting a grand château.

It’s intimate. Leonardo’s bedroom, his studio, the rooms where he worked on drawings that would eventually influence centuries of engineering and art — they’re all here, and they’re modest in scale.

The Joconde is believed to have been finished here! Sketches for flying machines, canals, and bridges were made at the desk in the corner.

But what really makes Clos Lucé extraordinary is the garden.

Spread across 7 hectares, it holds 20 large-scale working models of Leonardo’s inventions — flying machines, a tank, a swing bridge, a helicopter prototype — reconstructed in 3D from his original drawings.

They’re interactive, they’re beautiful, and they genuinely convey the breadth of what this man was thinking about. For families with children, this is the highlight of the entire Loire. For anyone interested in the Renaissance beyond paintings, it’s essential.

There’s also a restaurant on site, the Auberge du Prieuré, which I’ll mention again later. The whole property has a quiet grandeur that makes you want to slow down.

---

Walking Amboise: What Not to Miss

The main street, rue Nationale, runs parallel to the Loire and is lined with boutiques, wine shops, and half-timbered houses that make you feel like you’ve stepped into another century.

From here, the Tour de l’Horloge, the old main city gate built in 1497, leads you up toward the castle.

The best place for eating and drinking is Place Michel-Debré, at the foot of the château ramparts. The terraces fill up on warm evenings, and the light on the stone is beautiful at sunset.

If you have time and energy, the Parc des Mini-Châteaux, a few minutes from the centre on boulevard Saint-Denis-Hors, is a surprisingly lovely option.

There are 41 scale models of Loire Valley châteaux, all at 1:25, set in a real garden with play areas. It’s helpful if you can’t visit all the castles, and it’s perfect for families. Open July to August 9h to 19h, April to June 10h to 18h30.

If you’re here in summer, Loire Aventure on Île d’Or along the Loire rents Canadian canoes for 20km day trips on the river.

It’s a beautiful way to see Amboise from the water and float past some of the region’s lesser-known spots. Open June to September daily 9h to 12h30 and 14h to 17h30.

---

Where to Eat and Drink in Amboise

Chez Bruno — Place Michel-Debré. A genuine vigneron’s bistrot right at the foot of the château.

The menu changes constantly (it’s a short carte, different every day), the small plates are well-crafted, and the whole thing is run by the patron himself. Reliable, unpretentious, and genuinely good. Open mid-March through mid-November, midday and evening.

Auberge du Prieuré is in the park of Clos Lucé. This is a unique dining experience. The servers wear period costumes and speak old French.

The dishes are inspired by Renaissance cooking, and the atmosphere feels like the 16th century. The food is delicious. The stories they share during the meal make it even better. It’s fun, and you can go straight from your visit to Clos Lucé without moving your car. Book ahead.

Pâtisserie Chocolaterie Bigot — my mother-in-law’s absolute favourite in the Loire Valley, which is saying something because she’s been here her whole life. The sorbets are exceptional.

The hot chocolate is rich and thick. Go even if you’re not hungry. You’ll find it.

For drinks, Le Shaker at 3 quai François-Tissard is a cocktail bar on the left bank of the Loire. There are over 140 choices, a terrace right on the river, and the château is lit up across the water at dusk. On weekends it’s lively.

The Caveau des Vignerons d’Amboise on Place Michel-Debré lets you taste AOC Touraine-Amboise wines in a real cave setting, with about a dozen local vignerons represented.

---

Where to Stay in Amboise

Book early. This is not a warning to ignore.

Amboise is small, good hotels fill up fast, and where you sleep can make the difference between a wonderful base and an exhausting one.

If you’re still deciding where to stay, you might also look into Blois or Tours, although I honestly prefer Amboise.

Hôtel Le Blason is a 15th-century timbered building in the heart of town. It’s simple but full of character. Breakfast includes fresh bread, pastries, and cheese.

t’s excellent value and perfectly placed for exploring on foot. The rooms are on the smaller side, and it’s basic in its amenities. There is no spa or pool. It’s fine for a couple of nights but not a place to splurge.

Hotel Bellevue is 50 metres from the château, and some rooms have balconies over the Loire. The location is unbeatable. It’s a classic two-star, and you notice it. The rooms are functional rather than charming. Here, you’re paying for position, not luxury.

Hôtel-Restaurant Manoir Les Minimes is a more refined option, set in a beautiful manor. It’s a step up in style and comfort. It’s pricier, and the formal atmosphere isn’t for everyone. If you prefer something warm and personal, Le Blason will feel more right.

If you want to camp, Camping de l’Île d’Or sits on the island in the Loire with a stunning view of the château and town. The view is especially beautiful at sunset when the castle turns golden. It’s less than 10 minutes on foot from the centre. Open mid-March to mid-November.

---

When to Visit Amboise

Spring (late April through June) is the best time: gardens in bloom, mild weather, manageable crowds. The Loire Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage landscape, and in May it looks like a painting.

Autumn, from September to October, is my personal favourite. The light is golden, the vineyards change colour, and the mornings at the château are quiet before the tour buses arrive.

Summer is beautiful but busy. July and August bring crowds and higher prices. Arrive early and book everything in advance.

Winter has its own charm. Amboise decorates beautifully for Christmas, the château is nearly empty, and you can walk the gardens in the fog. Some of my most peaceful Loire visits have been in December.

Using Amboise as a Base: Day Trips

This is why I choose Amboise over every other town. From here, in a single day, you can reach:

Château de Chenonceau — 15 minutes. The most beautiful château in the Loire, built over the River Cher. Go early.

Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire — 20 minutes. Especially worth it during the International Garden Festival (April–November).

Château Royal d’Amboise and Clos Lucé — already in town. No driving needed.

Château de Chambord — 40 minutes. The biggest, most grand, most unforgettable. Give it half a day minimum.

Château de Cheverny — 45 minutes. Intimate, furnished, the Tintin connection.

Château de Villandry — 40 minutes. The gardens are the reason to go. Plan 2–3 hours minimum.

Château d’Azay-le-Rideau — 45 minutes. Smaller, quieter, built on an island in the Indre. For when you want beauty without crowds.

For any of these, I strongly recommend having a car.

Chenonceau is reachable by train, about 25 minutes from Amboise station, but for everything else you’ll want to drive. Rent before you arrive. DiscoverCars allows you to compare the prices.