For years, I had Tenerife on my “no go” list.

I thought it was all beach resorts and a barren volcano. Black sand beaches that would burn your feet. Tourist traps everywhere.

I couldn’t have been more wrong.

After spending 9 days exploring the island (part of the Canary Islands archipelago, off the coast of Spain), my opinion changed. Tenerife deserves much more credit.

In this guide (based on my 9-day self-planned road trip around Tenerife in June 2025) I’ll share everything you need to know, including our daily itinerary, budget tips, hiking routes, and the lessons we learned along the way.

How this guide was researched: This guide is based on my own 9-day road trip, plus information gathered from the Lonely Planet guide, extensive YouTube research, and discussions in Facebook travel groups and online forums.

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Planning Your Tenerife Trip: The Essentials

Best Time to Visit Tenerife

We went in June, and the timing was perfect.

The weather was warm but not scorching (around 25°C/77 °F in Costa Adeje), crowds were manageable, and everything was open.

The ocean water was a bit cold, but honestly, it was refreshing after hiking.

Based on research and talking to locals, avoid peak summer (July-August) when prices skyrocket and beaches get packed with European vacationers. Spring (April-May) and early fall (September-October) are also great options.

How Long to Stay in Tenerife

Everyone online says 5 days is enough.

I don’t agree.

We booked 9 days and wished we had more.

The island is bigger than you think, the mountain roads take longer than Google Maps suggests, and there are so many hidden corners worth exploring.

My recommendation: 7-9 days minimum if you want to see both the north and south, do some proper hiking, and actually relax.

Weather Patterns: South vs. North

Tenerife has microclimates.

We’d have 25°C/77 °F and full sunshine in Costa Adeje (south), then drive up through the mountains to the north and hit complete fog. Everything white, couldn’t see 10 meters ahead. Temperature would drop to 15°C/59 °F.

Then we’d descend on the other side, and the weather would change again.

This didn’t ruin our plans,we just adapted.

We’d check the weather app every morning and decide what to do based on conditions.

But even the app can’t predict what’s happening on the other side of the island. You just take a chance and see what happens.

These photos were taken on the same day, at one hour distance, in the North (Benijo) and in the South (Costa Adeje).

Why You Need a Car

Public buses exist, but if you want flexibility, you need a car.

The best hikes, villages, and viewpoints are only accessible by car.

We rented from Autoreisen directly on their website. (No commercial here, I just recommend it without earning anything of it. They are good.) It cost €122 for 9 days without insurance, plus about €100 for fuel.

You can also compare prises on DiscoverCars.

Fair warning: Some roads are intense. The drive to Masca is challenging. The drive to Benijo is extreme, I had to close my eyes sometimes. Avoid driving in Masca and/or Benijo at night!

But having our own car meant we could chase good weather, change plans on the fly, and explore at our own pace.

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Where to Stay in Tenerife

We stayed in Costa Adeje, in the south, at the Hotel Colon Guanahani.

Why Costa Adeje?

Sunshine. That was the deciding factor.

The north is more authentic, greener, and with better preserved Canarian architecture.

But the south has reliable sunshine, and after spending days driving around exploring, we wanted to know we could hit the beach and eat dinner without worrying about rain.

Costa Adeje is also very walkable. After long days of driving, we could easily explore restaurants and beaches on foot, which was a big advantage.

The area includes Playa de las Américas and Los Cristianos, all connected beach resort towns along the coast. (But I wasn’t a big fan of Los Cristianos, more on that later)

Just a heads-up: Costa Adeje is the coastal resort area, while Adeje town is inland and far less scenic. It’ s easy to mix up, but very different vibes.

Hotel Colon Guanahani

We chose the simplest room to keep costs down, but it was still spacious with a dressing area (not just a cupboard) and a balcony.

All rooms have balconies, actually.

What we loved: The hotel feels like you’re always outside. Rooms are built around open-air corridors filled with plants.

There are two pools: one outdoors with a pool restaurant and bar and one on the rooftop with views over Adeje and the ocean.

You can see all the photos of our stay on this review post.

Pro: It’s smaller than the huge resorts along the coast, which we really appreciated. Everything in Costa Adeje was within walking distance.

Con: It’s about an hour’s drive from the north, but still manageable. We preferred driving to having to pack and unpack at different hotels.

Would we stay there again? In a heartbeat.

For a complete breakdown of where to stay in Tenerife (north vs. south, best towns, hotel recommendations), check out my full guide: Where to Stay in Tenerife.

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The Perfect 9-Day Tenerife Itinerary

Here’s exactly what we did, day by day, using a single base in Tenerife (before continuing our trip to Gran Canaria).

Day 1: Arrival & First Impressions

Landed at Tenerife South Airport, picked up our rental car, and drove along the coast to Costa Adeje (about 1 hour). We already loved the scenery along the way!

We checked into Hotel Colon Guanahani, explored the area, and enjoyed our first sunset on a Tenerife beach. The black sand at golden hour was stunning and completely changed my expectations.

Day 2: First Hike & Los Cristianos Disappointment

The second day was actually the first exploring day.

We started with a small hike near Adeje to see wildflowers in bloom and get acquainted with the island.

We found it on AllTrails. It’s not a famous trail,and more of a walk (really easy hike) but the views were incredible.

This is when we started understanding that Tenerife was going to be a good surprise.

Drove 20 minutes to Los Cristianos afterward because I’d read it was worth seeing. I was disappointed.

The beach was small, too close to huge cruise ships docked nearby. I hate that, itmakes me think I’m bathing in ship oil.

We did have a nice meal at Bar La Mareta, a small restaurant by the beach.

Then drove back to Costa Adeje and stopped at La Perla shop for a unique experience: picking your own pearl from a living oyster! My husband picked one randomly, we learned about pearl quality (shape, size, color), and I made a necklace with it.

The pearl was valued at €90; the experience cost €35, plus the price of the necklace.

Day 3: Kayaking Adventure

We got back to Los Cristianos and joined a kayaking tour with about 15 people. (Booked it the day before, but it was the one in my link).

We love kayaking and do it often in France, especially in the Dordogne Valley, so we were among the most experienced.

The instructor was a friendly young guy who explained the differences between river kayaking and open-water kayaking, which was really helpful.

He was also really attentive to everyone in the group. I got seasick at the end, and he took us straight back to shore. I recommend this tour without hesitation!

Cost: €45 per person, about 4 hours total (though it took a while to get started because some people were late and not everyone was at the same fitness level). They also sent us a photo gallery right after the tour !

After kayaking, we stopped at Siam Mall because I’d read a lot about it. It’s just a mall. Really. No fuss. Don’t waste precious time there.

Next to it is Siam Park, a water park that, according to reviews, always has long queues. We skipped it and decided it’s not our thing, though it might be worth it if you’re traveling with kids.

Day 4: Nothern villages, The Dragon Tree & Butterflies

Visited the north coast, starting with Garachico.

I loved the vibe of this town and regretted not planning to stay 2 nights there.

It’s easy to visit from the south, but the atmosphere is so different, more authentic, slower-paced.

Fun fact: Garachico was rebuilt after a 1706 volcanic eruption destroyed the original town. The natural pools are formed from that same lava flow !

In Garachico, make sure to see the viewpoint over the entire town from the ocean side.

We got lucky and stumbled upon a local artisan market with handmade goods at reasonable prices. Also witnessed some kind of cultural celebration with people marching and singing through the streets. It was beautiful to see.

Next stop: Icod de los Vinos to see the Drago Milenario an ancient dragon tree over 800 years old. It’s 18 meters tall and is one of Tenerife’s symbols.

You can see it from outside, so no need to pay to enter the garden.

We did paid, though, to enter the Mariposario del Drago (Butterfly Park). This was one of the best things we did in Tenerife.

You get to see hundreds of butterflies in all colors and stages of development, flying around you in a tropical greenhouse. It’s incredible!

The entrance costs 10 euros and you can buy the ticket on site.

Day 5: Masca

Masca is a secluded village in the mountains of Tenerife. It’s impressive to see.

For years and years, it was accesible only by foot!

So we decided to see it… by foot. It was hike of our trip!

We started in Erjos but had to combine 3 hiking trails to get there. My advice: Make it easier and start from Santiago del Teide instead.

The hike is beautiful with views over Teide in the first part, then mountains, then the ocean.

Arriving to The Mirador La Cruz de Hilda viewpoint from above was incredible. There is a small restaurant on site, with incredible views.

We took a well-deserved break, had smoothies and ice cream (with a view!).

The hike took us 4 hours total. It’s moderate to hard difficulty.

Bring water and food, the only place to buy something is near the end.

Masca village itself is tiny. Even if you don’t hike, I encourage you to drive up (if you’re comfortable with challenging roads) and see the valley views from above.

For complete hiking details with GPS coordinates, difficulty ratings, and what to bring, check out: Best Hikes in Tenerife.

You can get there by bus from Santiago del Teide, too, but check the schedule in advance, as there aren’t many buses during the day.

Some tours also offer to pick you up at your hotel and take you to Masca.

Day 6: Whale Watching from Los Gigantes

We took a sailing trip to see pilot whales and dolphins from Los Gigantes Cliffs.

We picked Los Gigantes because it has the most impressive coastline on the island, with dramatic cliffs dropping into the ocean.

The trip lasted 3 hours, cost €80 per person, and included food, drinks, and a swimming break. (In June, the water was too cold for me, but a good part of the group decided to swim either way!)

We saw many dolphins and small whales. It was unforgettable. I don’t know if this is related to the time of the year when we were there or if it’s pure luck.

I’m careful about recommending boat tours since marine animals aren’t always comfortable with people nearby, but this was an experience I’ll never forget. It’s up to you to decide.

Day 7: La Orotava, Puerto de la Cruz & Banana Plantation

Started day 7 of our Tenerife trip in La Orotava, which deserves at least 2 hours to wander around.

It’s a small town with colonial architecture, flower-covered balconies, cobblestone streets…it’s stunning.

There’s a beautiful walking route (about 1km, 30 minutes) from Calle San Francisco through the historic center.

Don’t miss Casa Lercaro, a stunning 16th-century mansion that now houses the History Museum.

The Casa de los Balcones is another 17th-century house with iconic wooden balconies, and it offers a glimpse of what Canarian architecture looks like inside.

If you’re into wine, Bodegas Tajinaste offers tastings of local Canarian wines.

I’m writing a separate guide specifically for La Orotava because it deserves it.

After Orotava, we visited a banana plantation near Puerto de la Cruz.

This was a guided walk through an active plantation with the owner, learning about banana cultivation and sustainable living.

We saw 15 types of aromatic plants and tasted banana liqueur.

You need to book the banana plantation tour in advance, it sells out days in advance. (I know because I wanted to book it for an earlier day and it was already sold out.)

Then, the day ended with a walk around Puerto de la Cruz.

Must-stops:

• Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden, €3 entry, 9h-18h), created in 1788, it’s one the oldest botanical garden in Spain with over 4,000 plant species
• Finca La Paz (one of the oldest buildings, exterior only)
• Café Alba for lunch with bay views
• Agatha Christie Painted Stairs for a quick photo
• and the waterfront promenade with street art in the C. Mequinez street

We also passed by Lago Martianez (swimming pools complex, €3 entry) but preferred to continue to Playa San Telmo instead.

Ended the day at Mirador San Pedro to watch sunset over Playa de Castro. I wished we’d had time to spend an entire day there among the palm trees!

Quick Stop: San Cristóbal de La Laguna (UNESCO old town)

We made a short stop in San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and former capital of Tenerife.

To be honest: we didn’t fall in love.

The historic center is charming, with colorful colonial buildings and pedestrian streets, but outside of the old town, the city feels quite ordinary. Parking was also a nightmare, easily the hardest of the whole trip.

We grabbed a coffee, strolled a few streets around the historic center, and moved on.

If you’re already in the north, it’s worth a 30-minute stop to see the old town. But I wouldn’t plan more time than that unless you’re really into history or architecture.

Practical tip: park outside the center and walk in. Trying to drive close is more stress than it’s worth.

Day 8: Teide National Park & Sunset

Teide deserves at least a full day of exploration.

We did the Roques de García hike (easy-moderate, with a beautiful Mars-like landscape), ate at Parador de Las Cañadas del Teide (the main restaurant in the park), took countless photos, and stayed for sunset over the clouds, with the volcano in the background.

This was the highlight of the trip. The way the light hits the volcanic rocks and the feeling of being on another planet was unforgettable.

For everything about visiting Teide (hiking trails, cable car booking, best times, what to bring), see my complete guide: Exploring Teide National Park.

Day 9: Anaga Mountains & Benijo

I couldn’t wait to see the Anaga Mountains, as I read the vegetation here is more jungle-like.

So we drove to Playa de Benijo for the Cruz del Draguillo hike.

It is true, the coast here is completely different from anything we’d seen, rough, with abrupt ridges.

Looks like Hawaii (maybe? I’ve never been, but this is how I imagine it).

Just a warning: if you think driving to Masca is tough, Benijo is even more extreme. I had to close my eyes a few times. Only try it if you’re a confident mountain driver.

This day’s hike took all the energy we had left, but it was so worth it. Moderate-hard difficulty.

Read about the hike in detail, with photos, in the post about the best hikes in Tenerife.

Coming down, we stopped at Playa de las Teresitas, maybe the most famous beach in Tenerife.

White sand (imported from Africa), long stretch, palm trees, mountains around it.

But I was disappointed by the cruise ships docked so close to the beach. We preferred the beaches in Costa Adeje, especially Playa del Duque with its beautiful relief and nice restaurants.

Last sunset in Tenerife was at La Torre del Mirador, a traditional Spanish restaurant with sea view. Books out weeks in advance.

Food was good but expensive, and the place feels a bit Disneyland-ish for Spanish traditions. But I like Disneyland, and I like doing touristy stuff sometimes.

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Best Things to Do in Tenerife

Here are the activities worth your time:

Hiking: This is the island’s hidden gem. The Masca Trail, Benijo’s coastal paths, and Teide’s volcanic landscapes each feel like exploring a different planet.

Whale & dolphin watching: From Los Gigantes. €80, 3 hours, includes food and drinks. Unforgettable experience.

Kayaking: €45 per person for a half-day trip. It’s a great way to see hidden coves and get close to marine life without disturbing them too much.

Mount Teide stargazing: We didn’t do it (our cable car got canceled), but I wish we had. Book way in advance.

Butterfly Park (Mariposario del Drago): Near Icod de los Vinos. Walking through a tropical greenhouse with hundreds of butterflies is magical.

Pearl workshop at La Perla: €30 plus jewelry. Pick your own pearl from a living oyster, learn about quality, make a necklace.

Banana plantation tour: Near Puerto de la Cruz. Book ahead! Fascinating and includes banana liqueur tasting.

What to skip: Siam Mall (it really is just a mall), most of Los Cristianos, and Santa Cruz if you’re short on time.

For a complete list of activities with booking links, prices, and tips, check out: Best Things to Do in Tenerife.

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Best Towns & Villages to Visit

Garachico: Our favorite in the north. Authentic vibe, natural pools carved into volcanic rock, local artisan markets. Spend at least half a day here.

La Orotava: Colonial architecture perfection. Casa de los Balcones, flower-covered wooden balconies, cobblestone streets. Allow 2+ hours.

Masca: Tiny village clinging to a mountainside with dramatic valley views. Worth the challenging drive just for the scenery, even if you don’t hike.

Icod de los Vinos: Home to the ancient dragon tree (Drago Milenario). Combine with the butterfly park.

Puerto de la Cruz: The largest city in the north. It’s nice for a half-day walk, with a waterfront promenade, old buildings, and street art. Not a must-see, but still pleasant.

Santa Cruz: If you enjoy city life, shopping, or museums, Santa Cruz may be worth a day.

For detailed guides on each town with walking routes, parking info, and restaurant recommendations, see: Best Towns & Villages in Tenerife.

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Teide National Park: Why It’s Worth the Trip

I mentioned this earlier: I usually prefer jungles over dry, red landscapes.

But Teide delivered in a way I can’t even explain.

It’s a completely different world up there.

As you drive up from the beaches toward the national park, the vegetation changes gradually. Trees become taller and lighter.

Then, almost suddenly, vegetation disappears completely and you feel like you’re on Mars.

You can explore on your own with a rental car.

Get out, do hikes, touch the soil.

The Roques de García trail is accessible to almost anyone. Even if you’re not in great shape, do the first 30 minutes and turn back. The views are worth it.

We tried to book the cable car to the Pico del Teide (the actual volcano peak), but it was canceled 2 days beforehand due to weather conditions. We couldn’t find tickets again afterward. Frustrating, but that’s how it goes.

My advice: Book the cable car or a stargazing tour way in advance. The sunset and night experiences are supposed to be incredible.

But honestly, just watching the sunset from the park itself and seeing the light hit the clouds from above, turning everything gold, was unforgettable.

That moment alone made the whole trip worth it.

Make sure to fuel your car before heading to the Teide National park, as there are no fuel stations up there.

For complete Teide information (hiking trails, cable car booking, best viewpoints, what to pack), read our full guide: Exploring Teide National Park.

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Where to Eat: The Guachinche Hunt

The food in Tenerife has two faces.

The good: Traditional Canarian food at Guachinche restaurants. These are family-run, rustic places serving home-cooked meals.

I loved the sauces they make for potatoes (papas arrugadas), especially the red mojo and green mojo sauce. Simple ingredients, amazing flavor. Authentic, affordable, and delicious.

The disappointing: In tourist areas (especially the south), finding Guachinches is hard. Most restaurants are international, Italian, steakhouses, and “Mediterranean fusion.”

Some are good, but I find it sad to eat Italian on an island in the middle of the ocean close to Africa.

My advice: Make the effort to find Guachinches, especially in the north. Ask locals, search online, drive a bit further. It’s worth it.

Budget Breakdown for Meals

• Average meal for 2: €50-80
• Fancy restaurant: €150-200 (like La Torre del Mirador)
• Guachinche: €30-50 for 2 people with wine

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Tenerife Budget Breakdown

Here’s what we spent for 9 days (2 people):

Accommodation: €130/night at Hotel Colon Guanahani = €1,170total

Car rental: €122 for 9 days (no insurance) + €100 fuel = €222 total

Activities:

• Kayaking: €100 (€50 each)
• Whale watching: €160 (€80 each)
• Pearl workshop: €30 + necklace cost
• Banana plantation: ~€50 for 2
• Butterfly park: ~€20 for 2
• Most hikes: FREE
• Teide: FREE (cable car canceled)

Activities total: ~€400-500

Food: €50-80 per meal average, €150-200 for fancy = roughly €600-900 for 9 days

Grand total for 9 days (2 people): €2,500-3,300

It’s affordable, especially considering we stayed in a nice hotel and didn’t skimp on activities.

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Practical Tips You Need to Know

Book Teide activities in advance: Cable car, stargazing tours, guided hikes to Pico del Teide—they all sell out weeks ahead.

The driving is challenging: Masca requires mountain driving confidence. Benijo is extreme—narrow roads, sharp turns, steep drops. Only attempt if you’re comfortable. Teide, surprisingly, was easy.

Pack water shoes: Essential. The sand gets hot (because it’s black), and some beaches have pebbles.

The weather is unpredictable. Check the app every morning, but remember it can’t always tell you what’s happening elsewhere on the island. Stay flexible.

Parking is mostly easy: Free or cheap at most places. Sometimes challenging at popular hiking trailheads (like Benijo—we parked in someone’s garden).

English is widely spoken: Especially in tourist areas. We had no language barrier issues.

Download AllTrails: Best app for finding hikes with GPS coordinates.

Book boat trips in advance: Not because they sell out, but because it’s overwhelming to decide on the spot at the port.

Safety Notes

Tenerife is very safe, but its landscapes are rugged and require some basic precautions.

• Emergency number: 112 in Spain.
• Mountain driving: Roads to Masca, Benijo, and Anaga are steep and narrow. Avoid driving them at night or in fog, and consider tours if you’re not confident.
• Hiking: Bring plenty of water, wear proper shoes, start early in summer, and download maps offline (signal can be weak).
• Teide altitude: It gets cold and windy at high elevation—bring layers and walk slowly if you feel short of breath.
• Sun & ocean: Strong sun year-round, and some beaches have currents. Use sunscreen and follow local swimming flags.

A few simple precautions make exploring Tenerife much safer and more enjoyable.

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What We’d Do Differently

Stay longer: We wished we had more time, especially for Teide (would dedicate 2 full days) and exploring beaches at a slower pace.

Add a rural finca stay: Spend a few days in the countryside at a traditional Canarian farmhouse for slow-travel vibes. We stayed in fincas when we vistied Mallorca, and it was one of the best decisions!

Visit the Teno Rural Park: we didn’t have time to do that

Book Teide stargazing: Not just the cable car. The night sky experience is supposed to be incredible.

Spend more time in the north coast: Garachico and that whole region deserve more attention.

Do the quad trip to Teide: We saw them while roadtripping, and it looked amazing. Next time!

Visit Santa Cruz de Tenerife: We chose not to see it, as we prioritized hikes and the smallest towns, but it would be interesting to visit it. If you enjoy city life, shopping, or museums, Santa Cruz may be worth a day or even two.

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Final Thoughts

Tenerife surprised me in the best way possible.

I came expecting beach resorts and a barren volcano. I left obsessed with hiking, the small mountain villages, the volcanic landscapes that look like Mars, and, yes, even the black-sand beaches.

It’s not perfect. The overtourism in parts of the south is real. Finding authentic food in tourist areas can be frustrating. The driving to some places is genuinely scary.

But if you’re willing to explore beyond the resort strips, if you’re curious about hiking and culture and not just beach lounging, Tenerife delivers.

This 9-day itinerary gives you the full experience: beaches, hikes, culture, activities, and enough flexibility to chase good weather and follow your interests.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat.

Next time, I’d stay even longer. I’d spend more time in the north. I’d finally catch that Teide stargazing tour. And I’d add a few days at a rural finca inland, far from the coast, just to experience the island’s quieter side.

If you’re on the fence about Tenerife, give it a chance. Just don’t expect it to be the Caribbean. Expect it to be wild, volcanic, diverse, and surprisingly green in the north.

Expect it to be uniquely Canarian.

And you won’t be disappointed.