I chose where to sleep based on one thing: the sun.
Then I spent most of my trip driving away from it.
We would leave Costa Adeje at 25°C under a perfectly blue sky. An hour later, we were in the mountains, in fog so thick we couldn’t see 10 meters ahead. It was 15°C.
And then the fog would lift, and there would be La Orotava, or the green valleys above Garachico, or a road that made me close my eyes.
That is the whole north vs south question, really. The south is where the weather is. The north is where the island is. At least, that’s how it felt to me.
We stayed in the south for 9 days, and I’d make the same choice for a first trip. But the north impressed me far more. It’s the better scenery and it feels far more local.
So the honest answer depends on what you want to come back to at the end of the day.
Here’s how to decide, with the drive times, the real temperatures and the hotels I’d book on each side.
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THIS POST IN SHORT
My pick for a first trip: Stay south, explore north. That’s what we did.
Choose the south for: reliable sun, beaches, walkable evenings, easy restaurants.
Choose the north for: scenery, colonial towns, local life, green hikes.
The real difference: not the temperature, but the clouds and the rain.
Distance between the two: about 1 hour by car from Costa Adeje to the main northern towns. A car makes exploring far easier.
Top hotel, south: Hotel Colón Guanahaní, where we stayed.
Top hotel, north: Hotel San Roque in Garachico, where I wish we’d stayed.
Hotel Colón Guanahaní, Costa Adeje
The one I stayed in for 9 days and would book again. Open-air corridors full of plants, a rooftop pool, and a terrace at sunset. We paid €190 per night for the simplest room.
Should You Stay in the North or South of Tenerife?
Stay in the south if this is your first trip and you want reliable sunshine and easy dinners outside. Stay in the north if you came for the landscapes and towns, and you can live with some clouds.
The island is small enough that you don’t have to give anything up. We slept in the south and still saw La Orotava, Garachico, Icod de los Vinos, Puerto de la Cruz and the Anaga mountains on day trips.
What you do give up is the evening. You see La Orotava in the daytime, then you drive away. That’s the real cost of staying south.
| South (Costa Adeje area) | North (Garachico, La Orotava, Puerto de la Cruz) | |
|---|---|---|
| Weather | Sunny and dry, very reliable | Greener, more cloud, more rain |
| Scenery | Dry, built-up coast | Green valleys, cliffs, mountains |
| Feeling | International resort | Local Canarian life |
| Beaches | Easy, with facilities | Few, more natural pools and rough coast |
| Evenings | Walk to dozens of restaurants | Quieter, fewer choices |
| Food | Mostly international | Guachinches and traditional dishes |
| Hotels | More big resorts | More small historic hotels |
Where Exactly Should You Stay in Tenerife?
Picking a side is only half the decision. These are the five bases I’d consider, and what you give up in each.
| Base | Best for | Main compromise |
|---|---|---|
| Costa Adeje | First visits, beaches, walkable evenings | Resort feeling, little local life |
| Los Cristianos | A real town with a small old center | A beach that disappointed me |
| Garachico | Romance, character, very few tourists | Few hotels and restaurants to choose from |
| La Orotava | Architecture and history | Inland, on a slope, no beach |
| Puerto de la Cruz | Exploring the north over several days | Touristy, more clouds |
In the south, I chose Costa Adeje over Playa de las Américas because it’s quieter and has better beaches. Playa de las Américas is cheaper with more nightlife, but it feels more generic.
In the north, I’d choose Garachico or La Orotava over Puerto de la Cruz.
I go to Tenerife’s north for its character, and those two have far more of it. Puerto de la Cruz only wins if you want the most practical base.
Here’s my shortlist. I explain each choice further down.
Prices are approximate and change with your dates.
A map to help you book your stay
Use this map to find your stay in Tenerife. Select your dates in the search bar and it compares prices across the main booking sites to show you the best deals. Click on a hotel and it takes you straight to it, and you book on your favourite site.
Is It Colder in the North of Tenerife?
It can be. We had 25°C and full sun in Costa Adeje every day in June. Driving north through the mountains, we’d hit fog and it would drop to 15°C. Then we’d come down the other side and the weather would change again.
That’s what we lived. For comparison, here are the long-term averages for the coast on each side, which are closer than that drive suggests.
| Month | Puerto de la Cruz (north) | Tenerife South (south) | Rainy days per month, south |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 16–21°C | 15–22°C | 2 |
| April | 17–22°C | 16–23°C | 1 |
| June | 20–25°C | 19–26°C | 0 |
| August | 22–27°C | 21–29°C | 0 |
| October | 21–26°C | 20–27°C | 2 |
The figures come from Climats et Voyages. They cover slightly different years for each station, so read them as a general pattern.
The real difference is the sky. Most of the island’s rain falls on the north side, because the mountains block the moist air coming in with the trade winds. The north gets roughly 350 to 550 mm of rain a year, against 100 to 200 mm in the south, and it’s wettest and cloudiest from October to March.
Don’t count on clear skies in summer either. The winds push a band of cloud up against the northern mountains, between 500 and 1,500 m, and that’s the kind of fog we drove through in June.
We went in June, and the south gave us the same sunny 25°C day after day. The north could change completely within one drive. We checked the weather app every morning, and even the app couldn’t tell us what was waiting on the other side of the mountain.
So if you’re coming in winter for the sun, the south is the safer choice. If you’re coming to hike, the cooler north is actually more comfortable.
Winter is also when Tenerife makes the most sense to me. Most of my blog is about France, and it’s still my first choice for a summer trip. But when France gets too cold, the south of this island still reaches about 22°C in January.
For the warmer months, I also love an island with more old stones. I’ve written a 12-day Mallorca itinerary and a full travel guide to Crete if you’re still comparing.
One thing to pack wherever you stay: layers. You can cross three climates in one morning.
How Far Is the North From the South of Tenerife?
About an hour by car between Costa Adeje and the main northern towns, though it depends on your destination and route. That’s why you can sleep on one side and spend your days on the other.
| From Costa Adeje to | Distance | Drive time |
|---|---|---|
| Garachico | 50 km | 1 to 1.5 hours |
| Puerto de la Cruz | 67 km | 1 hour 5 minutes |
| La Orotava | about 65 km | about 1 hour |
| Teide National Park | 58 km | 1 hour 15 minutes |
| Santa Cruz | 83 km | about 1 hour |
| Benijo (Anaga) | about 110 km | about 1 hour 40 minutes |
These are estimates, based on our trip and on route planners. The mountain roads take longer than the apps suggest, especially when you stop every ten minutes because the view is ridiculous. Add a good margin.
The drive to Masca is challenging. The last part of the road to Benijo is extreme, and I mean it. I had to close my eyes sometimes.
We rented a car for all 9 days, for €122 without insurance plus about €100 in fuel. If you want to explore like we did, you need one. Public buses exist, but they won’t get you to most of the hikes and viewpoints on any useful schedule. For a pure beach holiday in Costa Adeje, you could manage without, since we walked everywhere there. Staying north shortens some drives, but you’ll still want a car.
What Is the South of Tenerife Like?
The south is easy. That is its great quality, and its great flaw.
It’s developed, international and built for tourism. English is everywhere. You won’t find many authentic Canarian experiences outside your hotel door, and finding traditional food in the resort areas can be frustrating. The overtourism is real here.
But after a long day of mountain roads, I can’t tell you how good it felt to park the car and walk to dinner. We walked everywhere in Costa Adeje. Our evening walk along the coast to Playa del Duque, about 25 minutes from our hotel, became a small ritual.
I also expected to hate the beaches. Black sand had kept Tenerife off my list for years. I was wrong. Playa de Fañabé at golden hour won me over completely. It does get hot underfoot, so bring water shoes.
What to Do in the South of Tenerife
The beaches come first: Playa de Fañabé was our favorite and Playa del Duque is the more polished one. Los Cristianos disappointed me because the beach sits too close to the cruise ships, though the town has a small old center and more character than the newer resorts.
The sea is the other big reason to be here. We did a half-day kayak tour for €50 per person, and a 3-hour whale and dolphin trip from Los Gigantes for €80.
Los Gigantes itself left me with mixed feelings. The cliffs are truly impressive. The coast below them is overbuilt with hotels, which is interesting to see and also sad.
If you want a hike close to your hotel, the La Quinta loop takes about 2 hours. And Masca, in the northwest, is doable as a day trip from here if you’re fine with the road.
The one thing I’d skip: Siam Mall. For everything else, on both sides of the island, here’s my list of the best things to do in Tenerife.
Just remember that Costa Adeje and Adeje are not the same place. Costa Adeje is on the coast. Adeje is the inland town up the hill where locals live.
What Is the North of Tenerife Like?
The north is the Tenerife I didn’t know existed.
I came expecting a brown volcano and beach resorts. Then we drove into green valleys, jungle trails and pastel streets where people were simply going about their day. In Garachico and La Laguna, I saw far more locals than tourists. The landscapes are more dramatic, and the whole place feels more Canarian.
It was the part of the island that impressed me most. If I judged only on beauty, the north would win without a discussion.
It also asks more of you. The weather can ruin a plan, the beaches are few, and you won’t find a restaurant on every corner. The coastline is rough and wild, which is exactly why I loved looking at it.
What to Do in the North of Tenerife
Start with La Orotava, my favorite place on the whole island. As an architect, I could easily have spent a full day among the flower-covered wooden balconies, the pastel facades and the cobblestones. Give it at least 2 to 3 hours, and see Casa de los Balcones and Casa Lercaro while you’re there. You’ll find the full walk in my guide to the best towns and villages in Tenerife.
Then Garachico, a port rebuilt after a volcanic eruption destroyed it in 1706, with natural pools in the old lava. Most visitors skip it. Don’t. It’s also the place where sleeping in the north would have changed my trip the most, because we had to leave it behind every time.
La Laguna is the UNESCO choice, with its colonial street grid and a student crowd that outnumbers the tourists. Puerto de la Cruz is touristy, but worth a half day for the Jardín Botánico (€3 entry).
Santa Cruz feels more like Barcelona than an island town. Go if you love museums. It was our least favorite stop.
The Anaga mountains are the wild part. We hiked to Cruz del Draguillo from Benijo, one of the best walks of the trip, and I’ve put the details in my post on the best hikes in Tenerife.
The north also has the food I had been looking for. Find a guachinche, order the ropa vieja or the garbanzas, and forget the resort menus.
One disappointment: Playa de las Teresitas. Famous, and not worth the trip for me. Playa de Castro, a secluded beach with palm trees, was much more my kind of place.
Which Side of Tenerife Is Best for You?
Here’s who I’d send where.
| If you are | Base yourself in | Because | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| A first-time visitor | Costa Adeje | Sun, beaches and walkable evenings | You’ll drive for local life |
| A winter sun seeker | Costa Adeje | The driest, most reliable side | Resort atmosphere |
| A family | Costa Adeje | Easy beaches, restaurants on foot | Several hotels are adults only, so check first |
| Looking for nightlife | Playa de las Américas | The liveliest area | A generic resort feel |
| An architecture and history lover | La Orotava | The best-preserved streets I saw | Inland, with no beach |
| A couple who wants quiet | Garachico | Very few tourists, sea views | Limited choice of hotels and restaurants |
| A hiker focused on Anaga and the north coast | Puerto de la Cruz | Shorter drives to those trails | More clouds, busy tourist areas |
| A hiker focused on Teide or Masca | Vilaflor or Santiago del Teide | Closest to those trails | Simple villages, not pretty ones |
| Someone who hates resorts | Garachico or La Orotava | Real towns | You’ll drive to the beach |
If you have 7 days or more, you can also split it. I’d do most of the nights in the south, then a few in Garachico. I still regret not staying overnight there, and it’s the first thing I’d change. Changing hotels costs you half a day of packing and driving, so it’s only worth it if you really want evenings in the north.
Teide sits in the middle, by the way, so it shouldn’t decide anything. You can reach it from either side. See my guide to exploring Teide National Park before you go.
The Best Hotels in the South of Tenerife
I’ve only slept in the first one. The other two are the ones I’d look at next, based on my research and on what I liked and didn’t like in the area.
🛏️ I stayed here · Top pick · Costa Adeje
Hotel Colón Guanahaní
💶 We paid €190 per night for the simplest room · 👫 Adults only
Best for: couples who want comfort without a mega-resort.
We hate huge hotels, and this one doesn’t feel like one. The rooms open onto open-air corridors full of plants, so you feel like you’re always outside.
Even our basic room was spacious, with a real dressing area and a balcony. There’s a pool with a bar and a second one on the roof, with views over Adeje and the sea.
The real wow moment was the restaurant terrace at sunset. We ate there twice, at €35 per person for the buffet without drinks, and I’m usually suspicious of buffets.
Now the bad parts. There’s no private parking. We used a free dirt lot 5 minutes away, and in 9 days we never found a spot on the street. The machine coffee at breakfast isn’t great. The main beach is a 15-minute walk, not next door. The hotel is now adults only, so it won’t work for families.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. Read my full review of Hotel Colón Guanahaní.
🔎 Researched pick · For a splurge · Costa Adeje
Gran Hotel Bahía del Duque
💶 Luxury, so check your dates
Best for: a special occasion.
This is the exception to my rule about big hotels. It has 346 rooms, but they’re spread across 19 low-rise buildings built as a kind of 19th-century Canarian village, with gardens all around.
Yes, it’s a stage set. But the architect in me prefers that to a concrete tower.
It puts you right on the beach we kept walking to in the evenings, and it welcomes families, with a children’s pool.
Skip it if you want local life. You’d be paying for the resort, not the island.
🔎 Researched pick · Near the beach · Los Cristianos
H10 Big Sur Boutique Hotel
💶 Mid-range, so check your dates · 👫 Adults only
Best for: adults who want a town around them.
This is the most practical of the three. It’s adults only, with 167 rooms, about 50 meters from the beach. It’s in the town center, on a quiet street, so you have real shops and restaurants close by.
The pool is heated in winter, but it can be noisy until midnight and the spa costs extra.
And you already know how I feel about the beach in Los Cristianos. I’d only pick this one if you care more about the town than the sand.
The Best Hotels in the North of Tenerife
I didn’t sleep in the north, and I regret it. I walked through these towns, though, and these are the three hotels I’d choose for each of them.
🔎 Researched pick · Top pick · Garachico
Hotel San Roque
💶 From around €250 per night · 👫 Adults only
Best for: a romantic stay and design lovers.
This is the one I’d book if I went back tomorrow. Garachico is the town I most regret leaving, and this hotel is how I’d fix that. It’s a restored 17th-century mansion with just 20 rooms, in a town with very few tourists.
The heated pool sits in the inner courtyard, and the restoration added Bauhaus-style touches to the traditional architecture. As an architect, I find that combination very hard to resist.
A guest review mentions there’s no private parking, only a large free public lot about a block away, so confirm this when you book.
The real luxury here is Garachico itself, after the day visitors have gone. I can’t tell you what those evenings feel like, because we drove back south. That’s exactly why it’s at the top of my list.
Skip it if you want lots of restaurants or a sandy beach.
🔎 Researched pick · Budget pick · La Orotava
Hotel Rural Victoria
💶 From around €110 per night
Best for: sleeping in my favorite town.
You can sleep inside a 16th-century mansion in the historic center, with 14 rooms and one suite, plus a restaurant and a terrace with views over the town and the ocean. Parking is listed too, which is rare in a center like this one.
La Orotava was my favorite place on the island, and I only saw it by day. This is how you’d wake up inside it, and a historic mansion at this price is what makes it my budget pick.
The caveat is that there’s no beach here. The town is also inland and on a slope, so expect to drive for the sea and to walk uphill. Skip it if you want to swim every day.
🔎 Researched pick · Longer stays · Puerto de la Cruz
Hotel Tigaiga
💶 Check your dates
Best for: hikers, older travelers and anyone staying a week in the north.
Puerto de la Cruz is too touristy to be my favorite, but it’s the most practical base in the north. This hotel solves the problem by sitting above it all.
It’s family-run, now by the third generation, with 80 rooms in Taoro Park. You get a heated pool, gardens full of subtropical plants, and a view that takes in the valley, the sea and Teide.
We spent a day between La Orotava and Puerto de la Cruz, and this valley is where I’d want to be for several days on this side. You’re an easy drive from La Orotava, and the views make up for a town I didn’t love.
The town and beaches are about a 15-minute walk away, so skip it if you want to step straight out into the action.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it better to stay in the north or south of Tenerife?
For a first trip, I’d say south, with day trips north. You get reliable sun and easy evenings, and you can still see the best of the north. For scenery and local life alone, the north wins.
Can you visit the north of Tenerife from the south in a day?
Yes, easily. We did it several times from Costa Adeje. Most towns are about an hour away, so leave early and combine two that are close together, like La Orotava and Garachico.
Is the north of Tenerife cloudy all the time?
No. It gets more cloud and rain than the south, especially from October to March, and summer is usually dry, though cloud can still sit on the mountains. We had fog in the mountains and sun lower down, sometimes on the same drive.
Is the north of Tenerife worth visiting?
Absolutely. It was the most impressive part of the island for me. If you only stay on the southern beaches, you’re missing the best of Tenerife.
Do you need a car in Tenerife?
If you want to explore, yes, wherever you stay. Most hikes and viewpoints are hard to reach by public bus. For a pure beach holiday in Costa Adeje, you could manage without one.
Which area is best for a family?
I’d go for Costa Adeje. The beaches are easy and the restaurants are within walking distance. Just note that Hotel Colón Guanahaní is adults only, so you’d need another hotel.
So, North or South?
I’d sleep in the south again. I loved coming back to the sun, a swim and a dinner I could walk to.
But it’s the north that impressed me most.
So book the south if you want an easy holiday with a great island behind it. Book the north if the island is the reason you’re coming. And if you can, do what I didn’t do: give Garachico at least one night.
If I were booking again, I’d choose Hotel Colón Guanahaní for a sunny, easy first trip, or Hotel San Roque to spend my evenings in the part of the island that impressed me most. Check availability for your dates before deciding, especially around the holidays.
Still deciding whether the island is for you? I wrote an honest guide on whether Tenerife is worth visiting, and my complete Tenerife guide has the full 9-day itinerary and budget.
Planning your trip to Tenerife?
Here is everything to know: my 9-day itinerary, the budget, where to eat and how to get around.
