I honestly asked myself that question for years.
A friend went on her honeymoon to Tenerife, and I associated the island with an ocean paradise dedicated mainly to beaches. I also knew there was a volcano on the island.
So in my head, the island was made up of a volcano area with no plants and brown dirt, and on the other hand, beaches where all you could do was stand in the sun all day long.
I appreciate a good sunny beach day, but doing that for several days? Not for me.
This, and the fact that the beaches in Tenerife are black sand beaches, put the island on a “no go” list for me.
For years, I would have said Tenerife is not worth visiting.
But then, somehow, we decided to give it a try.

THIS POST IN SHORT
- Best for: Hikers, beach lovers who want variety, culture seekers, active travelers
- Not ideal for: People wanting only pristine white-sand beaches, pure luxury resort experiences
- Recommended stay: 7-9 days minimum (5 days is too rushed)
- Best regions: North for culture and authenticity, South for beaches and sunshine
- Must-do: Teide National Park, Masca Trail, black sand beaches, traditional Guachinche restaurants
- Overtourism concern: Yes, especially in the south. Stay in smaller hotels and explore the north.
- Surprising discovery: The hiking! Mars-like landscapes, jungle trails, coastal paths
- Where we stayed and loved it: Adrián Hoteles Colón Guanahaní

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How Much Time Should You Spend in Tenerife?

We booked 9 days in Tenerife, followed by 5 days in Gran Canaria.
I like giving each destination enough time to actually see it. I read online that even 5 days are enough in Tenerife.
For our travel style, 5 days would have felt rushed. (We stayed 2 weeks in Mallorca a summer ago, as a comparaison, and loved every minute of it !).
You can’t see a place in 5 days. We opted for 9, and at the end, I wish we had more!
The island is bigger than you might expect, and the drives take longer than Google Maps says because of the mountain roads. There are also many hidden corners worth exploring.
My recommendation: you need a 7-9 days itinerary, minimum, if you want to do more than just lie on the beach.
So, Is Tenerife Worth Visiting?
To answer the question, I think it depends on what you’re looking for.
Let me break it down by traveler type.
Is Tenerife Worth Visiting for Beach Lovers?
The beaches in Tenerife are not as good as in other islands like Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, or Lanzarote.
But they have something else: character.
As I said, most beaches in Tenerife are black sand beaches. I was a bit afraid of that because I had an experience with the black beach in Santorini some years ago, which I wasn’t particularly a fan of.
But arriving at our first beach in Tenerife? Well, it was a pleasant surprise!
Playa de Fañabé: Love at First Sight

Our first beach was Playa de Fañabé in Costa Adeje, where we decided to stay.
We arrived just at the right time for golden hour, and the sand looked so beautiful! The black sand glowed warm in that light, the waves were gentle, and the whole scene felt almost cinematic.
I fell in love with the place right away.
Black Sand AND White Sand Beaches

What you need to know is that Tenerife has black sand beaches and some white sand beaches (with sand they import from Africa… yes, really).
So you can actually have both.
But honestly, you won’t feel the need to search for a specific color. The beaches are beautiful, and you can find both long stretches and intimate coves.
Many of them have restaurants and are lively. But some are secluded away, like Playa de Castro, where you have to go down hundreds of steps surrounded by as many palms as you can count to reach a secluded paradise.
Natural Pools Too

Tenerife also has incredible natural pools carved into volcanic rock. They are like swimming pools by the ocean, but filled with seawater.
They’re equally fun and a unique Canarian experience you won’t find everywhere.
Bottom line: Yes, Tenerife is great for beach lovers. But explore! Don’t spend an entire week at the one closest to your hotel.
Is Tenerife Worth Visiting for Culture and Towns?
OMG, yes!
The island has several beautiful villages and towns that are worth the stop, especially in the north. Many buildings have managed to conserve that characteristic Canarian architectural style.
Towns like Garachico, La Orotava, and Masca are a beauty apart.
They’re also small and make you feel like you discovered a hidden gem.
Garachico: Ocean Viewpoint Magic

In Garachico, make sure to see the viewpoint over the entire town from the ocean side.
The old buildings cascade down to meet the black volcanic rocks and the Atlantic waves.
It’s stunning. The natural pools here are also some of the best on the island.
La Orotava: Colonial Architecture Perfection
La Orotava is a lovely place to walk around. The buildings are painted in shades of ochre, red, and yellow, showing off classic Canarian architecture.
And if you are curious about the interiors of the Canarian houses, visit the Casa de los Balcones ! It’s a 17th-century house with those iconic wooden balconies overflowing with flowers.
Marquesado de la Quinta Roja Gardens are a must. (Entrance is free)
This is a park built on a slope. It has incredible vegetation and views over La Orotava and Puerto de la Cruz.
Icod de los Vinos

Icod de los Vinos is a charming town to wander around.
It feels calm, local, and very authentic, with small plazas, colorful facades, and views stretching all the way to the ocean.
The absolute highlight is the Drago Milenario, the famous thousand-year-old dragon tree. It’s one of the most iconic natural landmarks in Tenerife, and seeing it in real life is surprisingly impressive.
Masca: The Valley That Takes Your Breath Away

In Masca, I encourage you to climb a bit higher to see the valley from above!
The village itself clings to the mountainside, but the real magic is the panoramic view: steep cliffs, winding roads, and the ocean in the distance.
I wrote separate posts for each of these towns because I love them that much!
San Cristóbal de La Laguna (UNESCO)

Just outside Santa Cruz, La Laguna is a UNESCO World Heritage old town known for its colorful facades and historic streets. It’s an easy, short stop for a coffee and a stroll. It’s important to go with a plan for parking (I’d park outside the center and walk in).
The Bigger Cities: Santa Cruz and Puerto de la Cruz

As for cities like Santa Cruz de Tenerife or Puerto de la Cruz, they have interesting streets and some nice buildings. They’re great for a half-day walk.
Just don’t imagine them to be incredibly unmissable places.
They’re cool, but not amazing. Worth a visit if you’re nearby, but not worth rearranging your entire itinerary for.
Is Tenerife Worth Visiting for Hiking Lovers?

I honestly didn’t expect the island to have as many beautiful hikes.
I always heard about Madeira for hiking, but is anybody talking about Tenerife?
It was impressive to hike in places that looked so different from each other.
One day, we felt like we were on Mars because of Teide. Another day, we were in valleys that reminded us of Sri Lanka. On other days, it felt like a mix between jungle and the scenery in Hawaii.
We managed to do 4 days of hiking out of the 9 we stayed there, and we honestly wished we could have stayed more and done more!
The Best Hikes in Tenerife
- Benijo hike
- Roques de Garcia hike in Teide
- the famous Masca trail
Masca Trail: This was the best hike we did in Tenerife. You descend through a dramatic gorge all the way to the ocean. It’s challenging but absolutely worth it. The scenery is amazing, like hiking through a fantasy landscape.
Cruz del Draguillo (starting in Benijo): This coastal hike has views that go on forever. The trail takes you along cliffs with the Atlantic crashing below. We started early to catch the sunrise, and I’m so glad we did.
Roques de García (Teide National Park): This trail goes through a Mars-like landscape. There are red and brown volcanic rock formations, no vegetation, and mountains in the distance. It felt like being on another planet. (I share departure points, GPS info, and photos in my Best Hikes in Tenerife guide.)
Bottom line: If you love hiking, Tenerife is absolutely worth visiting. The diversity of landscapes is unmatched.
How About the Food in Tenerife?
Okay, the food has two faces, and we can’t decide if we loved it or not.
The Good: Traditional Guachinche Restaurants

First, of course, you have the traditional Canarian food in Guachinche restaurants. Those are the best!
I loved the sauces they make for the potatoes, especially the red mojo and green mojo. Simple ingredients, incredible flavor. This is the best way to eat in Tenerife.
Guachinches are family-run, rustic restaurants that serve home-cooked meals. They’re authentic, affordable, and delicious.
The catch? In tourist areas, they are hard to find. It’s a lot easier to eat in Guachinches in the north than in the south.
The Disappointing: International Restaurant Overload
In the south, most of the restaurants are international. Italian, steak houses, “Mediterranean fusion.”
Although some of them are really good, I find it sad to eat Italian or steak on an island in the middle of the ocean close to Africa.
I wish more places kept the authenticity of local traditions.
My advice: Make the effort to find Guachinches, especially if you’re staying in the south. Ask locals, search online, drive a bit further. It’s worth it.
Is It Worth Going to Tenerife If You Want to Do Activities Instead of Just Sunbathing?
YES!
There are so, so many things to do on the island.
Boat Trips: Dolphins and Whales

You can take boat trips to dive or to see dolphins and small pilot whales. We did a trip and managed to see many of them.
This was in June, so I don’t know if the timing was just right or if this always happens.
I’m careful with wildlife tours. The best operators keep a respectful distance and follow local guidelines, but it’s still an interaction with wild animals. Choose an eco-focused company, avoid overcrowded boats, and don’t expect guarantees.
I will let you decide for yourself if you go or not.
This is boat the tour we took.
Kayaking: A Better Alternative

Another great thing we did was taking a kayak trip!
This was incredible because you see hidden coves. You’re closer to dolphins and turtles, and it bothers them less as long as you keep your distance.
Just keep in mind you have to know how to kayak, or at least be in good shape. You’ll have to get in and out of the kayak using your own arm strength.
This is kayaking tour we took. It included a really nice guide, a snack and photos of the trip.
Quad Biking to Teide
You could also go on a quad trip to Teide! We didn’t do that, but I wish we had.
It’s incredible to experience Teide from a quad. Many trips offer sunset tours, which are supposed to be amazing.
Speaking of Teide Volcano, Is It Really Worth Seeing?

I talked a bit in the beginning, saying I wasn’t sure this was for me.
I’m more of a jungle person than a fan of arid, red terrain.
But Teide delivered in a way I can’t even explain!
A Completely Different World

It is a completely other world up there.
To make it simple: Pico del Teide is the actual volcano that still stands tall and looks like a volcano. It sits in a place called Teide National Park.
As you go up from the beaches toward the national park, the vegetation changes. The trees become taller and lighter in color. Then, suddenly, the vegetation disappears completely, and you feel like you’re on Mars.
Exploring the Park

You can explore the park on your own by renting a car. You can also get out of your car, do hikes, climb around, touch the soil.
There’s a place to eat up there, close to my favorite hike, which is the one to Roques de García.
Cable Car to Pico del Teide
You can also go up on Pico del Teide using the cable car.
You have to book well in advance, and your trip will depend on the weather conditions of the day. Our trip was canceled 2 days before, and it was impossible to find tickets again after that.
Frustrating, but that’s how it goes.
Guided Tours
You can also go up there with a guided tour that includes a bus and a pickup from your hotel.
There are so many options. Some offer stargazing, some offer sunrise trips.
Either way, the experience is worth it.
There are many Teide tours options on both Viator and Get Your Guide if you don’t feel like driving.
I usually book my tours with Viator and GetYourGuide because it’s easy, reliable, and super flexible (free cancellation + pay later is a win).
But the Best Thing? Sunset at Teide


For me, the best thing to do up there is to watch the sunset!
The way the light hits those volcanic rocks, turning everything gold, red, and purple, is unforgettable. We stayed until the sky went dark and the stars came out.
That moment alone made the entire trip worth it.
Check out my detailed Teide guide for GPS coordinates.
But Isn’t Tenerife Too Overcrowded?
Sadly, yes. It is.
I’m half feeling bad about writing this article.
Because I want to share the beauty of the island, but I don’t want to contribute to the mass tourism that bothers the locals so much.
How to Visit Responsibly
Mass tourism is an issue, but you can avoid it by doing the following:
- Visiting the north – The lesser-known places, smaller towns, authentic restaurants
- Staying in small hotels managed by locals – Instead of the huge resorts built on the coast
- Eating at Guachinches – Supporting family businesses
- Exploring beyond the main tourist spots – Garachico, Anaga Rural Park
Where We Stayed

We chose a hotel in Costa Adeje. It’s still relatively big, but we consider it small compared to other resorts on the coast.
We absolutely loved it! We could walk out to eat or to the beach, but we still had a beautiful pool, great restaurant, and a boutique hotel vibe.
My recommendation: Choose smaller accommodations. Rent apartments from locals. Spend your money in family-run businesses.
It makes a difference.
We stayed at Adrián Hoteles Colón Guanahaní. It was an incredible place. Smaller than a huge resort but still on the coast. Next time, we will stay in a traditional finca for sure!
Practical Tips for Visiting Tenerife
- Rent a car – Public transport exists but is limited. The island is big, and the best places require driving. Compare prices on DiscoverCars or go directly with Autoreisen. This is what we did and had a smooth experience.
- Book Teide cable car tickets in advance – They sell out weeks ahead, especially in summer. You can either book them on the official website if you’re driving there by yourself, or book a tour with bus + tickets included.
I prefer booking tours on Viator or GetYourGuide as this ensures free cancellation.
- Stay in both north and south – Or at least do several day trips. They’re like two different islands.
- Pack layers – It’s warm at the beach, cold at Teide. The temperature difference is dramatic.
- Check hiking trail conditions – Some trails close after rain or due to maintenance.
- Avoid August if possible – Peak European vacation time. Prices skyrocket, beaches are packed.
- Learn basic Spanish – Especially in the north, fewer people speak English.
Final Thoughts: So, Is Tenerife Worth Visiting?
Yes. Absolutely yes.
But not for the reasons I expected.
I came thinking it would be all beaches and resorts.
I left obsessed with the hiking, the small mountain villages, the volcanic landscapes that look like another planet.
Tenerife surprised me in the best way.
It’s not perfect. The overtourism in the south is real, and finding authentic food in tourist areas can be frustrating.
But if you’re willing to explore beyond the resort strips, if you’re curious about hiking and culture and not just beach lounging, Tenerife delivers.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat.
Next time, I’d stay longer.
I’d spend more time in the north. I’d do more hikes. I’d chase that Teide cable car booking like my life depended on it.
If you’re on the fence about Tenerife, give it a chance.
Just don’t expect it to be the Caribbean. Expect it to be wild, volcanic, diverse, and surprisingly green in the north.
Expect it to be uniquely Canarian.
And you won’t be disappointed.

FAQ
Is Tenerife worth visiting if I don’t like black sand beaches?
Yes! Tenerife has both black and white sand beaches. And honestly, the black sand beaches are more beautiful than you’d expect—especially at golden hour. Plus, there’s so much more to do than beaches.
How many days do you need in Tenerife?
Minimum 7 days, ideally 9-10. Five days is too rushed if you want to see both the north and south, do some hiking, and actually relax.
Is Tenerife good for hiking?
Absolutely! It’s one of the best-kept secrets. The diversity of landscapes—volcanic, coastal, jungle-like forests—is incredible. Masca Trail and Teide National Park are must-dos.
Where should I stay in Tenerife?
South (Costa Adeje, Los Cristianos): Better weather, more beaches, but more touristy. Good base for activities.
North (Puerto de la Cruz, La Orotava): More authentic, better for culture, greener landscape. Can be cloudier.
Best option: Split your stay between both regions if you have time.
Is Tenerife too touristy?
The south can be very touristy, especially around Playa de las Américas. But the north and inland areas are much more authentic. Choose smaller hotels, explore beyond the main strips, and you’ll avoid the worst of it.
Do you need a car in Tenerife?
Yes, if you want to explore properly. The best hikes, villages, and viewpoints require driving. Public buses exist but are limited and time-consuming.
Is the food good in Tenerife?
Traditional Canarian food at Guachinche restaurants is excellent. Tourist areas have mostly international restaurants, which can be disappointing. Make the effort to find authentic places—it’s worth it.

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Hi, I’m Ersilia

Toulouse, France

Originally from Romania

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As a Romanian expat living in the heart of southern France, I guide English speakers to discover authentic French experiences without the language barrier. My unique perspective as both a local and an expat allows me to share insider tips, cultural insights, and practical advice that you won’t find in typical guidebooks.
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