Avignon comes up in every Provence itinerary. And it’s always tied to one thing: the Palais des Papes.

So when we went back to Provence for our second trip (the one after our rainy honeymoon in the Gorges du Verdon), we finally stopped here.

We were based in Avignon that time, which made it easy.

Here’s the thing though—Avignon as a place to stay? I wouldn’t recommend it if you want that perfect french vibe.

It felt busy, a little soulless, and it didn’t have that Provençal magic you get in Saint-Rémy or Aix.

But Avignon is great as a day trip. And the Palais des Papes is the main reason to come.

Book tickets online. Skip the queue, especially in summer.

A Fortress That Makes You Look Up

The Palais des Papes is massive. It rises from the city walls like a fortress, and the Gothic architecture is legitimately impressive.

You stand in front of it and think: okay, this is big.

It was built in the 14th century when the popes actually moved here from Rome for a few decades.

Avignon was the seat of the papacy, before the Vatican of Rome.

The whole point of this palace was to show power, wealth, authority. And it does.

But once you step inside, it changes.

A Short History of the Palais des Papes

The basics: It was built between 1335 and 1364. It’s the largest Gothic building of its kind in the world.

Nine popes actually ruled from here when the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.

Why it looks the way it does: Each pope added their own touch.

Clement VI went for opulence—frescoes, decoration, grandeur

Benedict XII (his tomb’s still inside) focused on fortifying it: thick walls, defense and strength.

The result is a fortress on the outside and a spiritual power center on the inside.

What you’ll see: Bare stone halls that echo. Private chapels with traces of painted frescoes. Cloisters and ceremonial rooms. Ancient floors with impressive mossaics.

Some frescoes were meant to impress cardinals and kings, in this way they are big, bold, political.

Others (like in the Saint-Martial chapel) are more intimate.

The vibe: It was never just one thing. It got prayer, politics and pageantry, all mixed together.

Now it’s a museum with thousands of visitors every year, but somehow it still feels quiet. Timeless.

I Wish We’d Booked a Guide

Walking through the vast empty halls, I kept thinking: something’s missing.

And there was. Furniture. Décor. Anything that helps you imagine how people actually lived here.

You’re left with enormous stone rooms that echo when you walk. They’re atmospheric, sure. But also kind of… empty.

Some rooms have projections or digital displays. Some have preserved frescoes that hint at what it used to look like.

The chapel, the cloisters, the pope’s private apartments—they’re still beautiful. The scale reminds you how powerful the Church was.

But I really wish we’d booked a guided tour. I think it would’ve made everything come alive—stories, context, someone connecting the dots for you.

If you go, book a guide.

Don’t Skip the Pont d’Avignon

The palace is the main draw, but it’s not the only thing worth seeing.

A short walk away is the Pont Saint-Bénézet—yes, the bridge from the famous kindergarden song.

The bridge is doesn’t reach the other side of the Rhône anymore, which makes it even more romantic and mysterious.

You can walk along the riverbank below, watch boats go by, take in the city from a different angle. It’s peaceful down there. A good balance after the heaviness of the palace.

The Gardens Are Closed Until 2026

Quick heads-up: the palace gardens are closed for renovation until March 2026.

Normally they’d be one of the most peaceful and photogenic parts of the visit—views over the Rhône, quiet spaces away from the crowds.

So if you’ve read about them elsewhere, just know: they’re not open yet.

The “Rooftop” View

There isn’t a traditional rooftop terrace. But there is an elevated rampart walkway you can access during your visit.

It gives you panoramic views over Avignon’s rooftops, the Pont d’Avignon, and the Rhône.

It’s not fancy, but it’s the view you see in postcards.

We went late afternoon and the light was beautiful—golden, soft, that Provençal glow. It made up for the emptier parts of the palace.

Tips If You’re Going

Go early. Mornings are quieter and cooler.

Book tickets online. Skip the queue, especially in summer.

Get a guide or audio guide. This isn’t optional if you want the place to make sense.

Combine it with a walk. The Pont, the historic center, maybe lunch somewhere—it makes a perfect half-day route.

Don’t stay in Avignon. Unless you’re just passing through and need a train connection. You’ll find more charm in nearby towns.

So Is It Worth It?

I wouldn’t base myself in Avignon again. But I’m glad I saw it. And the Palais des Papes was a big part of that.

Yes, I wish there was more staging, more furniture, more life in those rooms. But that doesn’t take away from its importance as a historic site.

Walking through those halls, knowing the most powerful religious figures of the time lived and ruled there—it gives you that little shiver of connection to the past.

It felt museum-like in parts. A bit too quiet, a bit too empty. But the grandeur is real.

If you’re already in Provence, should you go? Yes. For me, it’s one of the best places to see in Provence.

Just don’t expect a romantic village experience. Expect stone, history, and the kind of silence that echoes.

And once you’re done? Head back to Saint-Rémy or Aix for rosé and cicadas.

fAQ