I’m Ersilia – architect and travel lover
📍 Based in Toulouse, I’ve been uncovering castles, villages & hidden gems for years — and I share the ones I truly love.
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My Honest Take on Provence Without a Car
I first explored Provence by car because I live just three hours away, but the whole time I kept thinking about my best friend—who doesn’t drive and loves France.
Could she enjoy Provence as much as I did without a car?
The answer is a big YES! It just takes a little planning.
Provence is all about lavender-scented fields, pastel-colored villages, and long lunches in sunny squares.
While it’s famous as a road trip destination, its train and bus network is surprisingly good, and guided tours make hilltop villages accessible.
Based on my trips—and what I’d recommend to my best friend—here’s how to enjoy Provence without ever getting behind the wheel. Just like you can visit the French Riviera by train, Provence shouldn’t be more complicated than that!
I’ll share towns you shouldn’t miss, practical transport tips, and honest impressions (spoiler: Avignon is gorgeous, but I felt uneasy walking at night). If you’re dreaming of markets, wine, and medieval streets, this guide is for you.
Is Traveling Provence Without a Car Realistic?
Provence has a reputation as a “car destination,” but if you know where to base yourself, it’s absolutely doable. Here’s why:
- Trains connect major towns: Avignon, Orange, and Arles are all accessible by direct regional trains.
- Buses fill in the gaps: Towns like Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue are well connected by local buses.
- Guided tours for harder-to-reach villages: If you want to see hilltop gems like Gordes or Roussillon, day tours from Avignon or Aix-en-Provence are ideal.
- No parking stress: Towns like Avignon and Arles can be tricky for drivers, so car-free travel means no circling for parking spots.
If you want to relax, enjoy wine, and not worry about narrow village roads, going car-free is actually a great choice.
On Omio you can compare trains and buses all aroud Provence. SNCF is the official website that you can check too.
Before choosing where to stay, check out what day tours are there…. on Get Your Guide
… or on Viator (I usually check out both, just in case)
Best Towns to Visit in Provence Without a Car
Aix en Provence
Aix-en-Provence (or simply “Aix” as locals call it) offers a completely different flavor of Provence experience. This is Provence with a university town energy, sophisticated café culture, and artistic heritage that goes far beyond the typical tourist trail.
Why Aix works perfectly without a car:
- Excellent train and bus connections from Marseille
- The historic center is entirely pedestrian-friendly
- Great base for longer stays (the city has real depth)
- Student population keeps things lively year-round
Getting around from Aix:
- To Marseille: 45-minute train or bus
- To Cassis: 1-hour bus connection
- To Avignon: 1 hour 15 minutes by train
- Local exploration: Excellent city bus network
The Mazarin Quarter is my top recommendation. It’s quieter than the main tourist areas but still within easy walking distance of everything. The streets are wider, the buildings are elegant, and you’ll feel more like a local than a tourist.
Avignon – Beautiful but Mixed Feelings
If you’re new to Provence travel or want maximum convenience, Avignon is your answer. This fortified medieval city is practically designed for car-free travelers!
I stayed in Avignon on my first Provence trip.
It’s beautiful—the Palais des Papes is incredible—but I didn’t love how unsafe it felt at night. If you stay here, pick accommodations near the center.
- Getting there: TGV from Paris or Marseille, plus great regional connections.
- Things to do: Palais des Papes, Pont d’Avignon, and strolls through the old town.
- Tip: Use it as a base for day trips; its transport connections are excellent.
Why Avignon works so well without a car:
- Direct TGV connections from Paris (just 2 hours 40 minutes—I’ve done this trip more times than I can count!)
- The entire historic center is walkable within 20 minutes
- Excellent train connections to other Provençal towns
- Everything you need is within the city walls
Getting around from Avignon:
- To Arles: 35-minute train ride
- To Orange: 15-20 minute train
- To L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: 30-minute local train
- To Saint-Rémy: 25-minute bus or short taxi ride
The secret is staying inside the ramparts, especially near Rue des Teinturiers, or if you can, right next to the Palais des Papes.
Orange – Roman History & Relaxed Vibes
Orange was such a pleasant surprise for me. I loved the relaxed vibe, and the restaurants were charming yet affordable compared to Saint-Rémy.
It often gets overlooked in favor of more famous Provençal destinations, but that’s exactly what makes it special.
This small city is home to one of the world’s best-preserved Roman theaters and maintains a wonderfully authentic, unhurried atmosphere.
- Getting there: Direct trains from Avignon (15 minutes).
- Things to do: Don’t miss the UNESCO-listed Roman Theatre, one of the best-preserved in the world. Stroll through the historic center, then have dinner at a wine bar.
- Why it’s great car-free: Compact, walkable, and easy to explore in half a day.
Why Orange works brilliantly without a car
- Just 15-20 minutes by train from Avignon
- The entire town center is compact and walkable
- Much less touristy than other Provençal destinations
- Excellent value for accommodation
Getting around from Orange:
- To Avignon: 15-20 minute train
- To Carpentras: 30-minute train (great for exploring Mont Ventoux region)
- To Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 15-minute bus (wine lovers, this is your stop!)
Choose accommodation near the city center—everything is within easy walking distance. The area around the theater has several charming boutique hotels, and you’ll pay significantly less than in Avignon or Arles.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence – Quintessential Provençal Charm
Saint-Rémy is one of my favorite towns in Provence—it’s expensive, yes, but worth every euro.
Its sunlit squares, shuttered stone houses, and lively market days feel straight out of a postcard.
It requires a bit more planning since it’s not directly connected by train.
Getting there: Regular buses run from Avignon, making it easy without a car.
From Avignon: 25-minute taxi (about €30-40) or local bus
From Arles: 45-minute bus connection
Book taxis in advance, especially during peak season
Things to do: Visit the Roman ruins at Glanum, wander the weekly market, and pop into boutiques selling Provençal linens and soaps.
This is the place to splurge on a boutique hotel with a garden.
Because I’m so in love with this place, I have an entire article about how to choose the best place to stay in Saint-Rémy !
Arles – Roman Ruins & Artistic Inspiration
If you love history and photography, you’ll adore Arles.
It’s where Van Gogh painted some of his most famous works, and the Roman amphitheater is stunning.
Arles captured my heart the moment I stepped off the train.
This compact city manages to pack Roman ruins, Van Gogh’s legacy, and some of the best markets in Provence into streets you can easily explore on foot.
Getting there: Easy train ride from Avignon (about 20–30 minutes).
Things to do: Visit the Arles Amphitheatre, walk the Van Gogh trail, and relax in sunlit cafés.
The art lover’s paradise: Walking through Arles feels like stepping into a Van Gogh painting.
The yellow café at Place du Forum where he painted Café Terrace at Night is still there, still yellow, but unfortunetly they aren’t open anymore. The building itself is still beautiful, though.
Why Arles is perfect for car-free travel
- Direct train connections from Avignon (35 minutes)
- The entire historic center is pedestrian-friendly
- Amazing Saturday market (and I mean amazing—it stretches for blocks!)
- Van Gogh sites are all within walking distance
Getting around from Arles
- To Avignon: 35-minute train
- To Nîmes: 30-minute train
- To Marseille: 45-minute train
- To Camargue: Local bus connections (perfect for flamingo spotting!)
Base yourself near Place du Forum for the best balance of atmosphere and convenience.
The area buzzes with energy in the evenings, and you’ll be steps away from restaurants, bars, and the main sights.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – Riverside Markets & Antiques
Known as the “Venice of Provence,” this riverside town is perfect for market lovers.
This is hands-down the most romantic base in Provence.
The sound of water wheels, tree-lined canals, and intimate restaurants make it perfect for couples.
Getting there: Buses from Avignon (around 40 minutes).
Things to do: Visit on Sunday for its famous antique market, enjoy riverside walks, and have coffee at a waterside café.
Why L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is ideal for car-free travelers
- Direct train connection from Avignon (30 minutes)
- The entire town is walkable within 15 minutes
- Perfect size for a relaxing weekend getaway
- Excellent access to western Luberon villages via organized tours
Getting around from L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
- To Avignon: 30-minute train
- To Luberon villages: Day tours and some bus connections
- To Fontaine-de-Vaucluse: 10-minute bus ride
Look for bed and breakfasts or small hotels near the center—many offer gardens perfect for slow mornings with coffee and pastries.
The canal views are lovely, but rooms facing the water can get some noise from the waterwheels.
How to Get Around Provence Without a Car
By Train
- TGV for long-distance connections (Paris–Avignon in under 3 hours).
- Regional TER trains connect Avignon, Orange, Arles, and Marseille.
By Bus
- Reliable and affordable.
- Check local schedules (bus networks are well organized in the Vaucluse and Bouches-du-Rhône regions).
By Guided Tours
- Perfect for hilltop villages like Gordes, Roussillon, or lavender fields.
- Book with GetYourGuide or Viator for day trips.
By Bike or E-Bike
- Great for exploring countryside areas around Saint-Rémy.
- Many hotels offer rentals or you can book a bike tour
Suggested 5-Stop Itinerary Without a Car (town hopping)
Stop 1: Arrive in Avignon – Explore the city and stay overnight.
Stop 2: Take a train to Orange – Half-day Roman ruins & wine bar dinner.
Stop 3: Bus to Saint-Rémy – Market day, Roman ruins, and boutique shopping.
Stop 4: Train to Arles – Explore the amphitheater and Van Gogh trail.
Stop 5: Bus to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – Sunday antique market and riverside cafés.
(If you have extra time, add a guided tour to Gordes or the Luberon.)
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Transportation Mistakes
Assuming all villages are connected by public transport: Some beautiful villages require tours or taxis.
Not checking Sunday schedules: Many bus services are reduced or eliminated on Sundays.
Accommodation Mistakes
Booking outside city centers: What seems like a small distance becomes significant when walking with luggage.
Not confirming transport connections: Always verify how to get from the train station to your accommodation.
Overlooking noise factors: City center locations can be noisy, especially during festival seasons.
Planning Mistakes
Overpacking the itinerary: Without a car, you need more time for each destination.
Not building in flexibility: Public transport schedules sometimes change, especially for smaller routes.Underestimating walking distances: Even “walkable” cities involve more walking than you might expect.
Conclusion: Yes, You Can Visit Provence Without a Car!
Provence isn’t just for road-trippers.
With trains, buses, and guided tours, you can enjoy all the magic—without the stress of driving.
Sip wine in Orange, wander Saint-Rémy’s cobblestone streets, marvel at Roman ruins in Arles, and lose yourself in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s markets. Slowing down doesn’t mean missing out—it means experiencing more deeply.
When you’re not rushing from village to village, you have time to notice the way vendors arrange their produce at morning markets.
You can linger over that perfect café au lait while watching the world wake up in a medieval square.
You might even strike up a conversation with a local who shares their favorite hidden spot that no guidebook mentions.
The practical benefits are obvious: save money, reduce stress, and avoid the hassle of driving in unfamiliar territory.
But the real gift of car-free travel is the permission it gives you to truly absorb the rhythm of Provence.
The towns I’ve outlined—Avignon, Arles, Orange, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, and Saint-Rémy—represent the best of what Provence offers car-free travelers. Each has its own personality, its own strengths, and its own way of revealing the magic of this extraordinary region.
Whether you choose to base yourself in one town for a week or create a multi-stop itinerary, you’re embarking on a journey that will change how you think about travel. Provence without a car is possible.
So pack light, embrace the adventure, and prepare to discover that the journey really is just as important as the destination. The trains are waiting, the buses are running, and the most beautiful corners of Provence are ready to welcome you at whatever pace feels right.
Ready to plan your car-free adventure? Book your hotel now, grab your train tickets, and check out the best tours for day trips—Provence awaits!
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Hi, I’m Ersilia
Toulouse, France
Originally from Romania
English & French Content
As a Romanian expat living in the heart of southern France, I guide English speakers to discover authentic French experiences without the language barrier. My unique perspective as both a local and an expat allows me to share insider tips, cultural insights, and practical advice that you won’t find in typical guidebooks.
My Expertise:
- French life and culture navigation
- Hidden gems across French regions
- Eastern vs Western European perspectives
- Local insights and practical travel tips
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HI Ersilia, I have been poring over your blog. You are a wealth of information! I am wondering if I can ask you about a trip, arriving in Provence March 28 for about 9 days after being in Paris. I am 73 and in pretty good shape and will be traveling alone. I am not sure if I should rent a car for at least part of my stay and perhaps stay in 2 different locations. I was thinking either of Aix or Avignon and/or a smaller village(s) for a couple of days. Or, should I just stay in one place and do day trips. I am just not sure. I am an artist and want to soak up the culture, views, and paint a little along the way. So perhaps a tour might be nice for 1 day or afternoon but I primarily want to go at my own pace stopping when I would like. That’s why a car appeals to me for at least some of the time. I am assuming parking isn’t as much of an issue in March. On Thursday April 2 I will be training to Milan to meet my daughter. If you can’t reply personally I understand.
Thank you. Susan Bruce
Hi Susan! Thank you for your message. It gives me great motivation to know that my posts help you! From what I see, you have two options : either stay in one place for 9 nights, or split it in two separate locations. If you are confident about driving in France, that would give you a lot more flexibility. In terms of location, Avignon is better situated and more close to the main sites in Provence (Gordes, Roussillon, L’Isle sur la Sorgue, etc). Aix would be closer to the coast, but a bit too far away to do day trips to these villages easily. From Aix, it would be easier to see the coast (Cassis, Marseilles). Either way, both Avignon and Aix would take at least one hour of driving each way. If you plan to just soak up the culture and take it slowly, I would suggest to base in Saint-Remy (I have a post on that) – or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. In March, parking won’t be an issue. I’d avoid Avignon at this time of the year, other than a day trip, it would feel too insecure. But these two locations are not ok if you don’t have a car. Maybe if you stay in St Remy for 5 days, you can plan an entire day for the town itself and the ruins, then another 2 days for driving around to see Gordes/Roussillon/maybe other villages, a day to see Avignon, and another optional day for either rest or something else. Then, you can switch to Aix, give up the car and do 1 day in Aix, 1 day in Cassis, and maybe a day trip with a tour if you feel like it (as Aix has the most complete offer of tours). I hope this helps! Have a nice trip in Provence! And don’t hesitate to write me directly via email at ersilia@explorewithersilia.com