Someone once told me Saint-Rémy is “the Saint-Tropez of Provence,” and I laughed. Then I spent a day walking its boutiques, cafés and plane-tree squares, and I had to admit they had a point. This is not your typical sleepy Provençal village. It is polished, a bit touristy, and still genuinely charming.
My first visit was a day trip on my honeymoon, and within a few hours I knew we’d made a mistake: Saint-Rémy should have been our base. It was spring, and the facades were dressed in flowers. They reminded me of Strasbourg’s decorated houses, with a southern twist. I’ve been telling friends to stay here ever since.
What makes it worth the trip is how much fits into one small town at the foot of the Alpilles: a 2,000-year-old Roman city, the asylum where Van Gogh painted The Starry Night, one of the best weekly markets in Provence, and restaurants ranging from casual terraces to Michelin stars.
This guide covers what I’d tell a friend visiting for the first time: what’s actually worth your time, how to get there and park, where to eat, and the practical details (opening days, crowds, closures) that are easy to get wrong.
SAINT-RÉMY-DE-PROVENCE, IN SHORT
In a hurry? Here is everything you need to know
My tried-and-tested tips for a first visit
- Best day to visit: Wednesday, for the market (8 am–1 pm)
- Where to park: the Glanum site car park, €4 for 8 hours
- Without a car: train to Avignon, then Zou! bus 707 (about 1 hour)
- Don’t miss: Glanum, Les Antiques, Saint-Paul de Mausole and the Van Gogh trail
- Time needed: one full day, or 2–3 nights as a base for Les Baux, Arles and Avignon
- Best season: April–May or September–October
Is Saint-Rémy-de-Provence worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you like history, art or food, because it does all three well in a compact, walkable town. If you only want a quiet hilltop village with no crowds, Saint-Rémy may feel too busy in summer. In that case, pair it with Les Baux early in the morning or visit in spring or autumn.
How much time do you need?
One full day covers the highlights: Glanum, Saint-Paul de Mausole, the old town and a long lunch. Two or three days let you add the Van Gogh trail, a workshop or bike ride, and day trips to Les Baux, Arles and Avignon. Saint-Rémy makes an excellent base for those.
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Getting to Saint-Rémy and Where to Park
By car: Saint-Rémy is about 25 minutes from both Avignon and Arles. A car is the easiest option if you also want to see Les Baux and the Luberon.
My parking tip
Skip the town-centre car parks and park at the Glanum archaeological site. It’s a flat fee of €4 for 8 hours, there’s usually space, and it’s a pleasant 15-minute walk into town. You also start the day right next to Glanum and Les Antiques.
Without a car: Saint-Rémy has no train station. Take the train to Avignon, then the regional Zou! bus line 707 (Avignon – Saint-Rémy – Les Baux – Arles) from the Avignon bus station next to Avignon Centre station. The trip takes about an hour and a ticket costs a few euros. There is a “Site de Glanum” stop, so you can go straight to the ruins. Check the timetable on zou.maregionsud.fr, because services are reduced outside summer.
From Arles: Zou! lines 704 or 707 take about an hour. From Marseille airport: about an hour by car. A taxi costs well over €100, so a rental car usually makes more sense.
Wednesday warning
The market takes over the centre, so some bus stops move and driving into town is slow until about 1 pm. Another reason to park at Glanum.
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The Best Things to Do in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
1. See Les Antiques (free)
Right by the Glanum car park stand two Roman monuments most people walk straight past: a triumphal arch and the Mausoleum of the Julii, one of the best-preserved Roman mausoleums anywhere. Both are outside the paid site, free and open at any time. Look closely at the arch’s carved captives, still sharp after 2,000 years.
Most people crowd around the arch and miss the mausoleum next to it. Walk all the way around it: the carved battle and hunting scenes at the base are the best part. At about 18 metres, it’s also much taller than it looks from the road.
2. Explore Glanum
Glanum began as a Celtic settlement around a sacred spring, took on Greek influences, then became a prosperous Roman town before it was abandoned in the 3rd century. It was only rediscovered in the 20th century. Today you walk its main street past temples, baths, the forum and houses, with the white rocks of the Alpilles right behind. Climb to the top of the site to see the sacred spring, which still flows. History lovers (like me!) can easily spend two hours here.
Take the audio guide (€3). It’s genuinely well made and turns piles of stones into a living town.
Glanum: practical info
- Tickets: €9 full price, free for EU residents under 26. Buy tickets here.
- Combo tip: a €12 joint ticket includes the Hôtel de Sade museum in town, where the finds from Glanum are displayed. If you’re also visiting Avignon, this Glanum + Palais des Papes ticket is cheaper than buying both separately.
- Hours: open daily, shorter hours in winter. Hours change on some days in July because of the Avignon and Glanum festivals, so check site-glanum.fr before you go.
- Tip: go first thing in the morning. There is very little shade.
Want more? I’ve put Glanum together with three other sites in my guide to Roman sites in Provence you can see in one day.
3. Walk in Van Gogh’s footsteps at Saint-Paul de Mausole
A five-minute walk from Glanum is the former monastery where Vincent van Gogh voluntarily stayed from May 1889 to May 1890. He painted around 150 canvases here, including The Starry Night and Irises. It is still a psychiatric clinic today, so the visit is quiet and respectful.
You see a reconstruction of his bedroom, a Romanesque cloister and the gardens. Reproductions of his paintings stand in the spots where he painted them. Seeing the painting next to the real olive trees and walls is what makes this place moving.
Saint-Paul de Mausole: practical info
- Tickets: on site, about €9.
- Hours: from April, daily 9:30 am–7 pm (last entry 6:30 pm). Shorter hours with a lunch break in late winter and autumn.
- Seasonal tip: the small lavender field in front of the building flowers in late June and July.
Winter closure
Saint-Paul de Mausole usually closes from late December to early February. Check before planning a winter visit around it.
4. Follow the Van Gogh painting trail
A free signposted walk of about 1 km links the old town to Saint-Paul de Mausole. Panels along the way show around 20 of Van Gogh’s paintings in the places he painted them.
Pick up the map at the tourist office, or use it to walk back into town after your visit. Prefer a guide? This Van Gogh tour covers his sites in both Saint-Rémy and Arles.
5. Musée Estrine (Van Gogh interpretation centre)
In an 18th-century mansion in the old town, Musée Estrine has a permanent Van Gogh interpretation centre and changing exhibitions of modern art. It’s a good rainy-day or midday-heat option. Closed on Mondays and in winter.
6. Wander the old town
The old centre is a small loop of shaded streets inside the boulevards. Don’t miss:
- Place Jules Pélissier: a fountain square for coffee or ice cream and people-watching. I visited in spring, when the facades were all decorated with flowers.
- Nostradamus: he was born here in 1503. You can see his birthplace from the street (it’s private, with a plaque) and the Nostradamus fountain in the centre.
- The Collégiale Saint-Martin: the large neoclassical church on the ring road, known for its organ.
- Musée des Alpilles: a small local-history museum in a Renaissance mansion, with a Zadkine bust of Van Gogh in the courtyard. Skip it if you only have one day.
Shopping: prices are high, but as I like to joke, still cheaper than the Champs-Élysées. A few addresses worth finding:
- Joël Durand: the town’s master chocolatier, with chocolates flavoured with lavender, rosemary and other local herbs.
- Souleiado: classic Provençal printed fabrics and clothing.
- Terre é Provence: local ceramics.
- RAVI Glacés de Provence for ice cream, and La Cave aux Fromages for cheese.
Shop opening hours
Most shops close for lunch (around 12–2 pm) and by 7 pm, so plan your shopping for late morning or mid-afternoon.
7. Go to the Wednesday market
If you can, plan your visit for a Wednesday. The weekly market fills the whole centre: produce, cheese, olives, lavender, baskets and fabrics. My favourite find was the vinegar stall. The sellers let you taste everything, including a lavender vinegar I’d never heard of, and you’ll want to take some home.
Market tips
The market runs roughly 8 am–1 pm and spills onto the ring road around the old town. Arrive by 8–9 am, before the tour buses, and bring cash. It’s also the best place to put together a picnic: cheese, olives, tomatoes, fruit and a baguette.
8. Make nougat with an almond farmer
For something hands-on, this 2-hour nougat workshop starts with a walk through organic almond orchards. Then you make traditional nougat, one of the 13 desserts of a Provençal Christmas, and taste fresh almonds. It’s small-group and books up quickly in season.
It’s the experience I’d book with children, or for a winter trip, when nougat is on every Provençal table.
9. Cycle through the olive groves
The flat roads around Saint-Rémy, through olive groves and vineyards with the Alpilles behind, are perfect for an e-bike. You can rent a bike or join a guided bike tour with picnic.
Summer access to the Alpilles
From 1 June to 30 September, access to the Alpilles hills is restricted day by day because of fire risk, and on high-risk days it’s closed completely. Roads around town are fine, but if you plan to hike, check the Bouches-du-Rhône prefecture’s daily access map the evening before.
10. Hike to Lac du Peirou
For an easy taste of the Alpilles, walk the roughly 5 km loop from Glanum to Lac du Peirou, a small reservoir created in the late 1800s to feed the town’s fountains. The Romans had already dammed this valley to supply Glanum. The path is rocky in places, so wear proper shoes and bring water. Fitter hikers can climb La Caume, the high point above Saint-Rémy, for views stretching from Avignon to the sea.
11. Taste wine at Château Romanin
Just east of town, Château Romanin is a biodynamic wine estate with a striking cellar carved into the hillside. On the way you pass the small Romanin airfield, where gliders are launched over the Alpilles. You can even book a flight with the local aero club.
A Perfect First Day in Saint-Rémy (Itinerary)
This plan works with the Glanum parking tip above, so you walk downhill into town and back up at the end of the day.
- 9:30 am – Les Antiques and Glanum. Park at Glanum, see the arch and mausoleum, then do the site with the audio guide while it’s cool.
- 11:30 am – Saint-Paul de Mausole. Five minutes on foot. Allow about an hour.
- 12:30 pm – Walk into town on the Van Gogh trail. About 20 minutes with stops at the panels.
- 1 pm – Lunch on a terrace. See my restaurant picks below. On a Wednesday, see the market first and eat a little later.
- 2:30 pm – Old town and shops. Place Jules Pélissier, Nostradamus’s birthplace, Musée Estrine if it’s hot. Remember that many shops reopen around 2 pm.
- 5 pm – Les Baux or the nougat workshop. Walk back up to your car at Glanum (about 15 minutes). Les Baux is a 15-minute drive and much calmer in the late afternoon; book the Carrières des Lumières in advance, or the nougat workshop instead.
- 8 pm – Dinner. A splurge at L’Auberge de Saint-Rémy or something relaxed in town.
Staying longer? Add a bike morning in the olive groves and a day trip from the list further down.
Where to Eat in Saint-Rémy
Saint-Rémy punches well above its size for food. Book ahead for dinner from May to September, and for any terrace table on market day.
For lunch
- L’Aile ou la Cuisse: my top pick. Provençal classics on a shaded terrace. I had the ratatouille and tapenade with a glass of local rosé, and it was exactly what I wanted after a morning of ruins.
- Terre et Blé: a bakery and table d’hôtes in a quiet artisan area, known for wood-fired bread and dishes based on local grains. Relaxed and shaded.
- Court-Circuit: casual, organic and local, with vegetarian dishes that change daily. Good for a quick healthy bite or picnic supplies.
For dinner
- La Cuisine des Anges: home-style cooking (fish, meat, fresh produce) on a green patio. Simple and good.
- Edú: a former plant nursery a few minutes outside the centre (avenue Albert Schweitzer), with a leafy garden terrace. Mediterranean plates to share, wood-fired pizzette and grilled meat and fish, plus a long list of the region’s best wines. Easy parking. Closed Sunday and Monday.
- La Table de Tourrel: one Michelin star. An intimate chef’s table in a 17th-century mansion in the old town, cooking with very local produce, plus a rooftop terrace with a simpler menu.
- L’Auberge de Saint-Rémy: the big splurge. Chefs Fanny Rey and Jonathan Wahid earned a second Michelin star in 2025, so book weeks ahead and ask for the terrace. Even if fine dining isn’t usually your thing, it’s worth it for a special occasion.
Budget tip
Buy bread, cheese and olives at the Wednesday market and picnic. It’s the cheapest good meal in town.
Where to Stay in Saint-Rémy
I didn’t stay in Saint-Rémy on my first trip, and I still regret it. A night or two lets you enjoy the town in the evening, after the day-trippers leave. My full list, with photos and prices, is in my guide to where to stay in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Quick picks:
- Château des Alpilles: the dream option. A 5-star château at the end of a tree-lined drive, with blue shutters and a pool in manicured gardens, 5 minutes by car from the centre.
- Hôtel de Tourrel: a 17th-century mansion in the old town with a rooftop pool and the Michelin-starred La Table de Tourrel.
- Le Petit Hôtel: a colourful, design-forward boutique hotel with 9 rooms, a garden and a small pool. I walked past it on my first trip and nearly cried for not booking it.
- Hôtel Le Saint Rémy & Spa: at the entrance to the old town, Provençal decor and a pool. My favourite part is the patio restaurant.
- Hôtel Sous les Figuiers: 7 natural-style rooms in a fig-shaded garden, with a heated pool.
- La Maison du Village: elegant rooms right inside the old town.
- Le Sommeil des Fées: a budget pick that still feels whimsical and personal.
Compare prices and locations on the map below.
Day Trips From Saint-Rémy
| Destination | Drive | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Les Baux-de-Provence | 15 min | Hilltop village and Château des Baux, plus the Carrières des Lumières immersive art shows in an old quarry, a 15-minute walk below. A combined ticket covers both. |
| Eygalières | 15 min | A quiet, elegant village popular with cyclists, with an antiques market on the last Sunday of the month |
| Tarascon | 20 min | A 15th-century castle on the Rhône and a Friday morning market |
| Arles | 25 min | Van Gogh’s other Provençal home, a Roman arena and a lively old town |
| Avignon | 25 min | The Palais des Papes and the famous bridge |
| Orange | 40 min | One of the best-preserved Roman theatres in the world |
| Luberon villages | 45–60 min | Gordes, Roussillon and other hilltop villages, or join an organised Luberon tour |
Without a car, Les Baux and Arles are on the same 707 bus line as Saint-Rémy. If you’d rather not drive at all, small-group tours leave from Saint-Rémy and Avignon: compare options on Viator or GetYourGuide. For Van Gogh fans, this tour combines his sites in Arles and Saint-Rémy.
When to Visit Saint-Rémy
- April–May: my favourite time. Mild weather, red poppies in the fields all around town, and far fewer people.
- June–August: lavender, long evenings and festivals, but crowds, 35°C afternoons and restricted access to the Alpilles hills. Do sightseeing early and keep the afternoon for a long lunch.
- September–October: warm, golden light and the grape and olive harvests. Excellent for cycling.
- November–March: quiet and local, but Saint-Paul de Mausole closes from late December to early February, and other sites have shorter hours.
Events worth planning around
- Fête de la Transhumance (Pentecost Monday): thousands of sheep, goats and donkeys walk through the town centre with shepherds in traditional dress. It’s free and very popular, so arrive early. The next one is on Monday 17 May 2027.
- Fête de la Saint-Éloi (end of May): a cart decorated with greenery and pulled by a long line of draft horses parades through town, with riders, Arlésiennes in costume and folk groups.
- Féria (mid-August): bulls in the streets, bands and courses camarguaises, the Provençal bull games where the bulls aren’t hurt and young raseteurs try to snatch ribbons from their horns.
- Every Wednesday morning: the market, all year round.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence FAQ
What day is the market in Saint-Rémy?
Wednesday morning, all year. It covers the whole centre and starts winding down in the early afternoon.
Can you visit Saint-Rémy without a car?
Yes. Take the train to Avignon, then Zou! bus 707 (about an hour). The town centre, Glanum and Saint-Paul de Mausole are all within walking distance of each other.
Is Saint-Rémy or Les Baux better?
They are 15 minutes apart, so do both. Saint-Rémy is a real town with shops, restaurants and Van Gogh; Les Baux is a small hilltop village best visited early or late in the day.
Where did Van Gogh live in Saint-Rémy?
At the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum, from May 1889 to May 1890. You can visit his reconstructed room, the cloister and the gardens he painted.
Is one day enough for Saint-Rémy?
One day covers the main sights. Stay two or three nights if you want to use it as a base for Les Baux, Arles, Avignon and the Luberon.
What should I buy in Saint-Rémy?
Alpilles olive oil, lavender-flavoured chocolate from Joël Durand, Provençal printed fabrics, local ceramics and nougat. On a Wednesday, the market has all of it.
Can you hike from Saint-Rémy?
Yes. The easiest walk is the 5 km loop from Glanum to Lac du Peirou. From June to September, check the prefecture’s daily access map for the Alpilles before you go, because the hills can be closed on high fire-risk days.
Final Thoughts
If you only have one day in this part of Provence, Saint-Rémy is the town I’d choose: Roman ruins in the morning, Van Gogh before lunch, a terrace in the afternoon. Come on a Wednesday if you can, park at Glanum, and leave room for one more coffee on Place Jules Pélissier than you planned.
Planning a longer trip? See my best places to visit in Provence, or let me plan your itinerary.
