Perfect Dordogne Itinerary : 3, 5 & 7 Days in Sarlat-la-Canéda & Beyond

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Published on March 13th, 2025 by Ersilia

Having called Toulouse home for several years now, I’ve had the luxury of exploring the Dordogne region more than 10 times, with three extended stays specifically in Sarlat-la-Canéda. Being just a 3-hour drive from my doorstep, this enchanting corner of southwestern France has become my go-to escape whenever I crave that perfect blend of history, natural beauty, and incredible gastronomy.

This itinerary centers around Sarlat for good reason.

After trying various bases throughout the region, I’ve found that this perfectly preserved medieval town offers the most strategic location for exploration while providing atmospheric accommodations, exceptional dining, and enough evening charm to make your downtime just as memorable as your day trips.

Simply put, it eliminates the logistical headaches that can sometimes accompany French countryside travel.

Whether you have a quick 3-day weekend or a full week to explore, I’ve crafted itineraries to maximize your experience:

The 3-day escape delivers the essential Dordogne experience: Sarlat’s magnificent medieval center, the awe-inspiring prehistoric art of Lascaux IV, and a kayaking adventure through the “Valley of the Five Castles” with visits to cliff-hugging villages that seem frozen in time.

With 5 days, you’ll add the extraordinary gardens of Marqueyssac, a hot air balloon ride offering bird’s-eye views of the castle-studded landscape, and an excursion to the sacred cliff-side village of Rocamadour with its surprising monkey forest sanctuary.

The complete 7-day journey expands further into the region’s diverse character, from the Roman history of Périgueux to the perfectly preserved bastide town of Monpazier, culminating with wine tasting in Bergerac country – each day revealing a different facet of this multifaceted region.

I’ve returned to the Dordogne in every season, and each visit uncovers new treasures that make me fall in love all over again. This itinerary distills my decade of explorations into experiences I believe capture the true essence of what makes the Dordogne so magical. Let’s dive in!

Why Choose Sarlat-la-Canéda as Your Dordogne Base

Picking the right home base can make or break your Dordogne experience, especially if it’s your first visit to the region. After three separate trips exploring this magical part of France, I can confidently say that Sarlat-la-Canéda is tough to beat for a perfect combination of convenience and charm!

First-timers, listen up – Sarlat sits strategically in the heart of what locals call the “golden triangle” of Périgord Noir, putting you within easy reach of practically EVERYTHING worth seeing.

You’re just 30 minutes from the prehistoric caves of Vézère Valley, 15 minutes from the most spectacular castles along the Dordogne River, and surrounded by those picture-perfect villages you’ve been dreaming about.

When you’re on vacation, spending less time in the car and more time actually experiencing things matters a lot!

The town itself is seriously gorgeous – one of France’s best-preserved medieval centers with honey-colored stone buildings that glow golden in the evening light. The narrow cobblestone streets are almost entirely pedestrian in the historic center, which makes exploring so much more pleasant than towns where you’re constantly dodging traffic.

Food lovers will be in heaven here! Sarlat’s Saturday market is considered among the best in France (high praise in a country that takes markets very seriously).

The market stretches through the entire town center, with local farmers selling everything from strawberries and walnuts to the region’s famous foie gras and truffles. Even on non-market days, the restaurant scene showcases authentic Périgord specialties that will ruin ordinary food for you forever.

The variety of accommodation options means there’s something for every budget – from luxury hotels in renovated historic buildings to charming apartments where you can pretend to be a local for a week. Many places offer parking too, which is a major bonus in this region where having a car is essential for exploration.

Unlike some smaller villages that feel like ghost towns after 8 PM or during off-season, Sarlat maintains its energy year-round with seasonal festivals, evening markets in summer, truffle markets in winter, and a generally lively atmosphere.

After a day of sightseeing, it’s nice to have restaurant choices and a bit of evening ambiance rather than finding everything closed.

For those trying to maximize their time, the location gives you easy access to both the Dordogne Valley (famous for its castles and river activities) and the Vézère Valley (home to the prehistoric caves and Les Eyzies) – two completely different experiences that showcase the region’s diversity.

I’ve tried staying in other towns during my visits, but I keep coming back to Sarlat because it simply works so well as a launching pad for Dordogne adventures. For first-timers especially, it removes a lot of the logistical headaches while still delivering that authentic French experience you’re traveling for!

We struck gold at “Le Clos du Peintre” just outside Sarlat – a beautiful stone house with only 5 rooms (which meant we often had the pool entirely to ourselves!).

Breakfast on their sunny terrace was delightful, and the 25-minute walk into Sarlat’s center became a pleasant ritual each evening.

If you wish to say within Sarlat, La Couleuvrine is a great place. Here you can step back in history, by sleeping in a 13th-century building that was once part of Sarlat’s defensive walls.

For something truly special, consider a castle stay near Beynac. We did this on one visit and still talk about waking up to those views over the valley – some experiences are worth the splurge!

The golden rule: whatever accommodation you choose, ensure it includes parking. This seemingly small detail can save you hours of frustration and unexpected parking fees.

Here is a map of the best stays in Sarlat-la-Caneda, to help you choose and compare accomodations prices around multiple websites. It simply shows the best price. Click on it and it will take you to the best price option for that stay.

Essential Tips for Planning Your Dordogne Trip

Let me share some insider tips that will make your Dordogne adventure so much smoother – I’ve learned these through – I think 10 – separate visits (and yes, a few mistakes along the way)!

When to Visit

Spring and fall are generally perfect for fewer crowds, though I discovered even in May there were plenty of visitors! A smart move is checking the French school holiday calendar before booking – when French schools are out, the region gets significantly busier.

Want a magical experience? Consider visiting during the July 14th national holiday (Bastille Day). Yes, it’s crowded, but the celebrations are worth it! I was lucky enough to catch the midnight fireworks from just behind Sarlat’s gothic cathedral in 2023, and it was absolutely spectacular seeing the medieval town illuminated by colorful explosions in the night sky!

Transportation Realities

I can’t stress this enough – you NEED a car in the Dordogne.

Public transportation is extremely limited, and the most charming spots are scattered across the countryside.

The good news? Driving here is relatively stress-free with well-maintained roads connecting the major sights.

If you’re nervous about driving in France, consider renting a smaller car – some village streets and parking spots can be tight. And don’t forget to request automatic transmission if you don’t drive stick shift!

Packing Smart

Beyond the usual vacation clothes, bring:

• Comfortable walking shoes with good grip (castle steps and cave floors can be slippery) – I always recommend Allbirds, I only use their shoes for travel since 2020.
• A light jacket even in summer (cave temperatures stay around 13°C/55°F year-round)
• A small backpack for day trips
• Reusable water bottle (you’ll do more walking than you expect)
• A hat and sunscreen (the summer sun can be intense)

Language Tips

While many tourism professionals speak English, knowing a few French phrases goes a long way. The locals genuinely appreciate even basic efforts!

And since you’re wondering – pronouncing “Dordogne” correctly does trip up many visitors! Try saying “door-don-yuh” with the last syllable as a soft nasal sound. My French friends laugh at my pronunciation guide, but it works: say “door” twice, then add “gne” like a soft “neaaah” sound!

Booking Requirements

Some attractions absolutely require advance booking – Lascaux IV being the prime example. You cannot buy tickets on-site, and peak season slots fill up weeks in advance. Book this one as soon as you confirm your travel dates.

Weather Expectations

The Dordogne enjoys a generally sunny microclimate, but be prepared for the occasional rain shower, especially in spring. The landscape actually looks incredibly lush and atmospheric with misty mornings and rain-slicked cobblestones – just pack a light rain jacket and you’ll still enjoy everything.

Tech Support

Download Navaway for excellent self-guided tours that provide historical context as you explore. Google Maps works well for navigation, but consider downloading offline maps before your trip as rural areas can have spotty cell coverage.

Your Dordogne Itinerary : 3, 5 & 7 Days

Day 1: Sarlat-la-Canéda and Immediate Surroundings

Morning: Medieval Exploration & Market Magic

Start your Dordogne adventure right in the medieval heart of Sarlat. If you’re arriving by car (which you should be!), here’s a local secret: skip the expensive central parking lots and head to the free parking area that locals use on Avenue Aristide Briand. It’s about a 10-minute walk to the center, but you’ll save both money and the headache of circling through narrow streets looking for a spot!

Begin with a morning exploration of Sarlat’s stunning medieval center. The honey-colored stone buildings are even more beautiful in the morning light when the streets are still quiet. Don’t miss the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos and the fascinating covered market in the former church of Sainte-Marie, now featuring a glass elevator designed by architect Jean Nouvel that gives you spectacular views over the town.

If you’re lucky enough to be here on a Wednesday or Saturday, dive into Sarlat’s famous market – but come EARLY! I made the mistake of arriving at 10am my first time and could barely move through the crowds. By 8:30am, you’ll get to experience the market as it springs to life, chat with local producers, and actually see the incredible array of products without playing human bumper cars!

Midday: A Cheese Lover’s Paradise

For lunch, I’ve got to recommend my favorite discovery: Chez Pierro, a restaurant that serves its entire menu based solely on cheese. No meat, no fish – nothing to distract you from pure cheese perfection! It sounds unusual but trust me, this place is a revelation for cheese lovers.

Afternoon: Castle Views in the Valley of Kings

In the afternoon, head to nearby Beynac Castle, just a 15-minute drive from Sarlat. While the castle interiors are relatively simple compared to Loire Valley châteaux, the real magic is in the history and those jaw-dropping views over what locals call “the Valley of the Five Castles.” Standing on those ramparts, you’ll see why Richard the Lionheart and the French kings fought so fiercely to control this strategic river valley.

Evening: Golden Hour in Medieval Sarlat

Return to Sarlat for the evening when the town truly comes alive with golden lighting illuminating those medieval facades. It’s almost magical watching the stone buildings glow as twilight descends. Cap off your first day with dinner at Gueule & Gosier Restaurant, where I had an absolutely fantastic Magret de canard sauce du général Tao (duck breast with General Tao sauce) – a brilliant fusion of French and Asian flavors that somehow perfectly represents the creativity of modern Périgord cuisine.

Day 2: Prehistoric Wonders of the Vézère Valley

Morning: Journey to the Dawn of Art

Today you’ll travel back in time – way back, to mankind’s artistic beginnings. Your first stop is Lascaux IV in Montignac, the incredible replica of what’s often called the “Sistine Chapel of Prehistory.”

But what exactly is a “cave replica”? The original Lascaux cave, discovered in 1940, had to be closed to the public in 1963 as human breath and presence were damaging the 17,000-year-old paintings. Today’s Lascaux IV, opened in 2016, is a painstakingly accurate reproduction where artists spent years recreating every crack, contour, and painting using the same pigments and techniques as our ancestors.

France has several of these remarkable facsimiles, including the Cosquer Cave replica in Marseilles, but Lascaux is considered the most impressive.

I loved both and I find it impressive how accurate the reproduction is. Lascaux is a cave that is visited on foot, usually during a guided tour (which I recommend !!!), while Cosquer is visied within small carriages. Another story for another time !

Make sure you’ve booked your tickets well in advance – they don’t sell them on-site, and you’ll be turned away without a reservation. The guided tour takes about an hour, and it’s genuinely mind-blowing to see these ancient masterpieces in their full context.

Midday: Capital of Prehistory

Next, drive to Les Eyzies, known as the “Capital of Prehistory,” where you’ll explore the excellent National Museum of Prehistory housed in a dramatic cliff setting. The museum holds France’s largest collection of Paleolithic artifacts and gives fascinating context to what you saw at Lascaux.

Grab lunch in one of the riverside restaurants in Les Eyzies – Le Centenaire offers excellent regional cuisine if you’re feeling like a proper sit-down meal, or there are several casual options along the main street.

Afternoon: Authentic Cave Experience

In the afternoon, visit either Font-de-Gaume (if you want to see authentic prehistoric paintings in an original cave setting) or Rouffignac Cave (known as the “Cave of a Hundred Mammoths” where you take a small electric train into the hillside). Either choice offers an authentic prehistoric experience that complements your morning at Lascaux.

Evening: Relaxation After Time Travel

Head back to Sarlat for a more relaxed evening. After a day of cave exploring, you might appreciate a lighter dinner at one of the casual bistros around Place de la Liberté, where you can people-watch while sipping a glass of Bergerac wine.

Day 3: Dordogne River Valley Highlights

Morning: Paddling Through History

Save one of the best experiences for last – seeing the Dordogne Valley from its namesake river! Start your day with a kayaking trip through the “Valley of the Five Castles.”

This 2-4 hour paddle offers simply unbeatable views of the region’s most spectacular castles and villages.

The standard route runs from Vitrac to Beynac, taking you past five medieval castles that once controlled this vital waterway. Don’t worry if you’re not an experienced kayaker – the river is gentle with very few rapids, and the current does most of the work. Just remember to bring water, sunscreen, and a waterproof bag for your camera and phone!

Midday: Cliffside Village Magic

After your paddling adventure, head to La Roque-Gageac, one of France’s “Most Beautiful Villages” dramatically built into a golden limestone cliff.

Don’t miss the hidden gem I discovered entirely by accident – La Bambousaie de La Roque-Gageac (the Bamboo Grove)! It’s a quick visit on the right side of the village just past the parking area.

This exotic garden was created thanks to La Roque-Gageac’s unique microclimate and features bamboo and other tropical plants that have no business thriving in central France!

For lunch, either enjoy riverside dining at one of La Roque-Gageac’s restaurants or – my personal favorite option – pick up some bread, cheese, and charcuterie for a picnic on the river beach directly across from the village.

There’s something magical about dangling your feet in the cool Dordogne water while gazing up at that impossibly picturesque village.

Afternoon: Panoramic Views from a Medieval Fortress

Spend your afternoon exploring Domme, a 13th-century bastide (fortified town) perched high above the valley.

The views from its panoramic terrace are among the best in the region – on clear days, you can see all the way to the Massif Central mountains! Wander the grid-pattern streets that are typical of these planned medieval towns and check out the unique cave beneath the main square that once served as both prison and refuge.

If you’re in the mood for a splurge dinner, I highly recommend Restaurant L’Esplanade in Domme. Have a memorable meal here with spectacular valley views as the sun sets. They also operate a lovely hotel if you’re considering a split-stay during your trip.

Evening: Farewell to the Medieval Gem

Return to Sarlat for your final evening, perhaps picking up some regional products to take home – foie gras, walnut oil, and truffles are all classic Dordogne souvenirs. End with a farewell dinner at one of the restaurants around Place de la Liberté, where you can soak in the lively atmosphere of this extraordinary medieval town one last time.

Extended 5-Day Dordogne Itinerary

Days 1-3: Follow the 3-day itinerary above

Day 4: Périgord Noir Castles and Gardens

Morning: A Bird’s Eye View of Medieval France or A Slide On The Dordogne River

Start your day with an unforgettable early morning hot air balloon flight over the Dordogne Valley. You can actually arrange this right from the Domaine de Monrecour castle where I mentioned I stayed!

There’s something truly magical about floating silently above those medieval fortresses as the morning mist rises from the river valley below.

The flights typically last about an hour, and while they’re not cheap (expect to pay around €200 per person), the perspective they offer is absolutely priceless.

Another great option, one of my favourites, is to take a boat or a kayak down the Dordogne River. (If you did not do this the first day already).

I would say this experience is a must! You don’t get float between 5 castles in the same day in many places!

And yes, you heard (read*) me well. In just one ride you can see 5 castles. This is “The Valley of the Five Castles” and it’s incredible to experience it from water. Check out my complete article on the subject, where I explain how to rent a kayak/canoe in Dordogne and what route to choose.

Midday: Stepping into Hollywood History

After you’re back on solid ground, head to Château des Milandes, the former home of the legendary performer Josephine Baker.

This Renaissance castle tells the extraordinary story of Baker – not just as a world-famous entertainer, but as a French Resistance agent during WWII and a civil rights activist who adopted 12 children from different countries to create what she called her “Rainbow Tribe.”

The castle is beautifully preserved, and the falconry displays in the gardens are a hit with visitors of all ages.

Afternoon: Gardens Fit for Fairytales

Next, immerse yourself in the stunning Jardins de Marqueyssac, featuring over 150,000 hand-pruned boxwood bushes sculpted into flowing, undulating shapes.

The “Belvédère” (viewpoint) offers what many consider the most spectacular panorama in the entire Dordogne region – you can see the river winding past La Roque-Gageac, Beynac, and Castelnaud all in one breathtaking vista. (The same valley of the 5 castles, yes!)

Plan at least an hour for this visit, as only the hike to the viewpoint takes around 40 minutes at best. There is a kid’s playground halfway there, so no worries for the little ones!

Even better, if you visit the Dordogne Valley during summer, one of the best things to do here are the evening visits of the Marqueyssac gardens. They organise concerts cand candlelights visits that are a bucketlist experience!!

Afterward, visit Les Jardins d’Eau in Carsac-Aillac, a hidden gem that most tourists miss entirely.

This water garden features a remarkable collection of lotus flowers and water lilies in a tranquil setting. What makes it extra special is the “aquatic labyrinth” – a network of wooden walkways that make you feel like you’re walking on water as you navigate between ponds filled with exotic aquatic plants. They even have a smartphone app that lets you control the garden’s fountain displays – it’s surprisingly fun!

Grab lunch either at the Marqueyssac garden café (which offers simple but tasty food with incredible views) or in one of the nearby villages.

Evening: Medieval Warfare and Castle Dining

Spend your afternoon exploring Castelnaud Castle and its fascinating Museum of Medieval Warfare.

While Beynac was the French stronghold, Castelnaud was held by the English during the Hundred Years’ War – these two fortresses literally faced off across the river! The museum houses an impressive collection of weapons, armor, and reconstructed siege engines. The demonstrations of medieval weapons are particularly impressive – watching the trebuchet hurl a projectile really brings history to life!

For dinner, stay right at the castle. The restaurant at Castelnaud offers good regional cuisine in a setting that can’t be beaten – dining in the shadow of a medieval fortress as the sunset bathes the valley in golden light.

Day 5: Rocamadour and Eastern Dordogne Highlights

Morning: The Sacred Cliff City

Today, venture slightly east to the breathtaking village of Rocamadour, which clings dramatically to a sheer limestone cliff. Here’s a crucial tip I learned the hard way: start your tour from the upper part of the village! It’s far easier to work your way down the many steps during your visit than to climb them all at the end when you’re already tired.

Begin at the castle at the very top, then make your way down to the religious sanctuaries built into the cliff face. Rocamadour has been an important pilgrimage site since the 12th century, and the atmosphere in the ancient chapels is genuinely moving, whether you’re religious or not.

For lunch, escape the crowds and head to Restaurant Le Bellevue, positioned outside the village where you can enjoy a spectacular view of Rocamadour itself while dining. The panorama of the entire cliff city from this vantage point is one of the most photographed scenes in all of France – and for good reason!

Midday: Monkey Business

After lunch, visit the delightful La Forêt des Singes (Monkey Forest) just a few minutes from Rocamadour. Here, around 150 Barbary macaques roam freely in a natural forest setting. It’s not a zoo – there are no cages, and the monkeys have plenty of space to live as they would in the wild. You’re given a handful of popcorn when you enter, and the experience of having these intelligent, curious creatures gently take food from your hand is something special.

Tickets are €11 for adults and €7 for children, but be sure to check opening times as they’re quite restricted. The site is only open during the sunny months (starting in March), and they sometimes close during inclement weather to protect the monkeys.

Afternoon: All Aboard the Steam Train

Cap off your Dordogne adventure with a journey on Le Train à Vapeur de Martel, a vintage steam train that chugs through some of the region’s most dramatic landscapes. This 13km round-trip takes you along corniche roads more than 80 meters high, offering spectacular panoramas of the Dordogne Valley that you can’t see any other way.

Very important tip: arrive at least 45 minutes before departure to buy tickets, or better yet, purchase them online in advance. You’ll have a choice between the steam train (which I took and highly recommend for the full nostalgic experience, complete with authentic sounds and smells) or a diesel train. Both cost the same (€13 for adults, €8 for children), so definitely opt for the more atmospheric steam version!

Evening: A Farewell to Remember

Return to Sarlat for your final evening in the Dordogne. For a memorable farewell dinner, look for a restaurant offering a good selection of local Bergerac wines to pair with your meal. These wines are criminally underrated compared to their famous neighbors in Bordeaux, offering excellent quality at much more reasonable prices. The sweet white wines from Monbazillac are particularly delightful as an apéritif or with foie gras, while the reds pair beautifully with the region’s duck specialties.

Raise a glass to the medieval villages, prehistoric wonders, and stunning landscapes you’ve experienced during your five days in this magical region. If you’re like me, you’ll already be planning your return before the last drop is gone!

Complete 7-Day Dordogne Experience

Days 1-5: Follow the 5-day itinerary above

Day 6: Périgueux and Northern Dordogne

Morning: Roman Origins and Byzantine Domes

For your sixth day, venture north to Périgueux, the sophisticated capital of the Dordogne department. This journey takes you into a different aspect of Périgord – one with deep Roman roots and a fascinating architectural heritage that spans over 2,000 years.

Start at the magnificent Cathedral of Saint-Front, a UNESCO World Heritage site that will make you do a double-take – its distinctive white domes look like they belong in Istanbul, not central France! This Byzantine-style cathedral stands on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and features a unique five-domed design that makes it one of the most unusual churches in France.

Next, immerse yourself in the region’s Roman history at the extraordinary Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum.

Designed by renowned architect Jean Nouvel, this sleek modern building sits directly atop the ruins of a Roman villa. The glass walls and elevated walkways let you peer down into the perfectly preserved 2,000-year-old foundations, complete with original mosaics and heating systems. The museum houses a remarkable collection of artifacts that bring daily life in Roman Gaul vividly to life.

Don’t rush through this museum – the blend of ancient history and cutting-edge architecture makes it one of the most unique cultural experiences in the entire region. The 40,000 annual visitors can’t be wrong!

Midday: Medieval Meanderings

For lunch, wander through Périgueux’s well-preserved medieval center, where timber-framed houses lean companionably over narrow streets, and Renaissance mansions hide behind elegant façades.

Place St-Louis offers several excellent dining options where you can sample the city’s famous specialty – pâté de Périgueux, a rich truffle-studded delicacy that’s been tempting palates for centuries.

After lunch, take time to explore the medieval quarter on foot. Don’t miss the Tour Mataguerre, the last remaining tower from the city’s medieval fortifications, and the Renaissance Maison du Pâtissier with its ornately carved wooden façade depicting bakers at work.

Afternoon: The Venice of Périgord

In the afternoon, drive about 30 minutes north to Brantôme, affectionately known as the “Venice of the Périgord.” This impossibly picturesque town sits on an island embraced by two arms of the River Dronne, with elegant stone bridges connecting it to the mainland.

Begin your visit at the Abbey of Brantôme, founded by Charlemagne in 769 (yes, that’s not a typo – it’s really that old!). The abbey features fascinating troglodyte caves carved into the cliff behind it, including an underground church with remarkable bas-relief sculptures.

Afterward, take a relaxing boat ride along the river for a different perspective on this charming town. The traditional flat-bottomed boats glide silently under stone bridges and past riverside gardens bursting with flowers – it’s a wonderfully peaceful way to appreciate Brantôme’s unique setting.

Evening: Riverside Reflections

Spend the early evening strolling along Brantôme’s canal-like waterways, perhaps stopping for a pre-dinner drink at one of the café terraces overlooking the water. The way the honey-colored stone buildings reflect in the calm water as the evening light fades is simply magical.

Drive back to Sarlat for the night, or if you prefer, many visitors choose to stay overnight in Brantôme at one of its riverside hotels to fully appreciate the town’s tranquil evening atmosphere after the day-trippers have left.

Day 7: Southern Dordogne and Wine Country

Morning: Perfect Medieval Planning

For your final day, head south to explore Monpazier, widely considered France’s most perfectly preserved bastide town.

Founded in 1284 by King Edward I of England, Monpazier is a textbook example of medieval urban planning, with its grid-pattern streets converging on a central market square lined with arcaded walkways.

Unlike many historic towns that evolved organically over centuries, bastides were meticulously planned new towns built during the turbulent 13th and 14th centuries. Monpazier’s astonishingly intact layout gives you a window directly into medieval life – the central square still hosts markets as it has for over 700 years!

Take time to admire the uniform arcades of the market square, peek inside the 13th-century church of St-Dominique, and wander the grid of streets that haven’t changed their layout since the Middle Ages. If you’re visiting on Thursday, you’ll catch the weekly market – a tradition unbroken since 1284!

From Monpazier, it’s a short drive to the imposing Château de Biron, a massive castle complex that dramatically combines military might with elegant living. Rising on a hilltop visible for miles around, Biron has been continuously expanded from the 12th to the 18th centuries, resulting in a fascinating architectural timeline as you move through its various sections.

Don’t miss the magnificent Renaissance chapel with its ornate sculptures, the grand ceremonial staircase, and the breathtaking views from the upper terraces. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Pyrenees mountains from here!

Midday: Vineyard Vistas

For lunch, treat yourself to a meal in a vineyard setting.

Château Monbazillac, just outside Bergerac, offers a wonderful restaurant with vineyard views where you can sample the region’s cuisine paired with their famous sweet white wines. (I always buy this one, even in Toulouse!)

The golden-hued château itself, with its distinctive blend of medieval defensive features and Renaissance elegance, makes a stunning backdrop for your meal.

If you still have time to squeeze in another castle, I recommend the Château de Bridoire. This is a very fun visit during summer nights, too, when they organise “escape room” visits!

Afternoon: Wine Country Wanderings

Spend your afternoon exploring Bergerac wine country, a region that produces excellent wines that often offer better value than their famous neighbors in Bordeaux. The Maison des Vins in Bergerac is an excellent starting point, offering tastings and information about the region’s nine appellations.

For a more in-depth experience, visit a few wineries for tastings. Château de Monbazillac (already mentioned), is known for its luscious sweet white wines that pair perfectly with foie gras, while vineyards around Pécharmant produce robust reds from the same grape varieties used in Bordeaux.

Many wineries offer English-language tours if you call ahead, and the winemakers are typically more accessible and down-to-earth than in more famous wine regions.

Don’t miss the opportunity to try wines from Montravel, Saussignac, and Rosette – smaller appellations that produce some real hidden gems at very reasonable prices. Pick up a few bottles to take home – they make perfect souvenirs that will let you relive your Dordogne memories long after you’ve returned home.

Evening: A Final Feast

Return to Sarlat for your final evening celebration dinner. For a memorable farewell to the Dordogne, book a table at Le Grand Bleu, a Michelin-starred restaurant where chef Maxime Lebrun creates sophisticated modern interpretations of traditional Périgord cuisine.

If you prefer something more casual but equally authentic, La Couleuvrine serves excellent regional specialties in a 13th-century building that was once part of Sarlat’s defensive walls.

Wherever you dine, be sure to toast your week-long Dordogne adventure with a glass of fine local wine. From prehistoric caves to medieval castles, from floating above the valley in a hot air balloon to paddling along the river through history, you’ve experienced the incredible diversity that makes this region so special.

As you savor your final Périgord truffle or perfectly prepared magret de canard, you’ll likely already be planning your return to discover even more of the Dordogne’s treasures. This region has a way of capturing hearts – mine included – and calling you back time and again.

Must-Try Food Experiences in the Dordogne Region

The Dordogne region is a paradise for food lovers, where centuries-old culinary traditions meet exceptional local ingredients. No visit would be complete without tasting the “holy trinity” of Périgord gastronomy: silky foie gras, crispy-yet-tender confit duck, and aromatic black truffles.

For the most authentic experience, explore the vibrant markets of Sarlat (Wednesdays and Saturdays) where producers sell everything from farm-fresh walnut oil to strawberries so sweet they’ll ruin you for supermarket fruit forever. Don’t miss the evening food markets during summer months, where you can dine at communal tables under the stars alongside locals and visitors alike.

The region’s restaurants range from simple bistros serving perfect duck magret to Michelin-starred establishments reimagining traditional recipes with modern techniques. My personal favorites include La Couleuvrine for its medieval atmosphere and Le Grand Bleu for special occasions.

Wine enthusiasts should venture to the nearby Bergerac region, where excellent wineries produce everything from sweet Monbazillac (perfect with foie gras) to robust Pécharmant reds at prices that will make Bordeaux lovers jealous.

Whether you’re sampling walnut cake at a village bakery, learning to prepare confit in a cooking class, or hunting for truffles with trained dogs during winter, the Dordogne offers food experiences that capture the essence of what makes French cuisine so special.

For my complete guide to Dordogne’s culinary treasures, including seasonal specialties, restaurant recommendations, and must-visit producers, check out my detailed food article.

Exploring Beyond the Main Attractions

While the Dordogne’s famous castles and caves deserve their reputation, some of my most magical moments came from venturing off the typical tourist route. The lesser-known prehistoric site of Abri du Cap Blanc offers intimate access to the only prehistoric sculpted frieze still in its original location, without the crowds of Lascaux.

For hidden villages, bypass the tour buses and discover Saint-Geniès with its distinctive brown-stone architecture, or Limeuil at the confluence of two rivers, where you can combine a visit to panoramic gardens with a refreshing swim.

Take the scenic D53 road between Beynac and Domme for breathtaking valley vistas, or gain a completely different perspective with a dawn hot air balloon ride from Château de Monrecour. For a water-level view, traditional gabarre boat rides from La Roque-Gageac offer fascinating historical commentary as you glide past cliff-side castles.

Les Jardins d’Eau in Carsac-Aillac features Europe’s only aquatic labyrinth with walkways that make you feel like you’re walking on water amid lotus flowers, while Le Train à Vapeur de Martel chugs along corniche routes with spectacular limestone cliff views.

Wildlife enthusiasts shouldn’t miss La Forêt des Singes near Rocamadour, where Barbary macaques roam freely without cages, creating a much more meaningful interaction than traditional zoos.

Seasonal activities add another dimension, from winter truffle hunting with trained dogs to spring strawberry picking around Vergt. And for a worthwhile detour, the cliff-clinging village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie in neighboring Lot consistently proves why it’s voted among France’s most beautiful villages.

For my complete guide to the Dordogne’s hidden treasures, including hiking trails, spiritual sites, and nature reserves, check out my detailed article.

Practical Information for Your Dordogne Adventure

Emergency & Medical Information

Keep the European emergency number (112) saved in your phone – operators speak English. For less urgent medical needs, pharmacies (marked by green crosses) can treat minor issues, while the hospital in Sarlat (Avenue Aristide Briand) handles more serious situations. Having travel insurance is essential, as medical care for non-EU citizens isn’t free.

Tourist Information Resources

Sarlat’s tourist office (3 Rue Tourny) offers maps, booking services, and knowledgeable staff who speak multiple languages. Smaller villages throughout the region have their own offices with local expertise – don’t hesitate to use them for restaurant reservations, event tickets, or insider advice about less-crowded visiting times.

Money Matters

ATMs are readily available in towns but can be scarce in rural areas, so keep some cash handy. Many smaller establishments, farmers’ markets, and local producers don’t accept cards for small purchases. Most restaurants and hotels accept major credit cards, though American Express is less widely accepted than Visa or Mastercard.

Navigating Parking Challenges

Parking in medieval towns can be notoriously difficult, especially during high season. In Sarlat, arrive before 9am to secure spots in the central parking lots, or use the free parking at Avenue Aristide Briand and walk 10 minutes to the center. Always keep coins handy for parking meters, and be aware that many village parking lots require displaying a paper ticket from a machine.

Transport Options

While having a car is ideal, limited public transportation exists. The train connects Sarlat to Bergerac and Bordeaux, and seasonal bus services run between major tourist sites. Taxis can be arranged through your accommodation but book in advance, especially during summer. For eco-friendly alternatives, consider renting electric bikes for shorter journeys between villages.

Accessibility Considerations

The Dordogne’s medieval architecture and hilly terrain create challenges for travelers with mobility concerns. Many castles have steep, uneven steps with limited alternatives. However, sites like Lascaux IV and several gardens offer good accessibility. Always call ahead to discuss specific needs, as many places will arrange special access when possible.

Staying Connected

Wi-Fi is widely available in accommodations and cafés, though connection speeds may be slower than you’re used to. For cellular data, 4G coverage is good in towns but can be spotty in deep valleys. Consider a French SIM card if you’ll be staying longer than a week or venturing into rural areas.

Timing Your Visit

Be aware that many attractions have seasonal hours, with limited openings or complete closures from November through March. Even during high season, many shops and attractions close between 12-2pm, honoring the traditional French lunch break. Always verify opening times, especially if visiting during shoulder seasons.

Local Etiquette

Always begin interactions with “Bonjour” before asking questions or making requests – this simple courtesy makes a world of difference.

Speaking a few basic French phrases is deeply appreciated, even if you quickly switch to English afterward.

Dining etiquette is important: lunch typically begins at 12:30, dinner at 7:30-8:00pm, and arriving outside these windows may result in limited service or closed kitchens.

If interested, I explained here a few of these “french etiquette” that I learned since I moved here.

Sustainable Tourism

The Dordogne’s natural beauty and cultural heritage deserve protection. Stay on marked trails when hiking, bring reusable water bottles and shopping bags, and opt for locally-produced souvenirs rather than imported items. Consider visiting popular sites in shoulder seasons to reduce overcrowding, and support businesses that emphasize environmental stewardship – your choices make a difference in preserving this special region for future generations.

Conclusion

The Dordogne region offers an extraordinary journey through time, from prehistoric caves to medieval castles, all set against the backdrop of France’s most enchanting countryside. With Sarlat-la-Canéda as your base, you’ll experience the perfect balance of structured exploration and leisurely discovery, whether you have 3, 5, or 7 days to spend.

I’ve returned to the Dordogne multiple times, and each visit reveals new treasures! From paddling down the gentle Dordogne River past five magnificent castles to savoring truffle-infused dishes in a centuries-old bistro, the memories you’ll create here will last a lifetime.

Pack your curiosity, bring your appetite, and prepare to fall in love with this magical corner of southwestern France. Your Dordogne adventure awaits – and trust me, one visit is rarely enough!