The first thing I do in any new city is walk it.
Not with a museum ticket. Not with a timed entry slot. Just with comfortable shoes and no particular deadline. I walk until I understand where things are relative to each other, what the scale of the place actually feels like, which squares I want to come back to, which streets I want to linger in. Only then do I start booking things.
In Florence, this instinct turned into one of the best days of the trip.

This is the itinerary we did on day one — a full self-guided walking loop that covers every major landmark in the city, crosses the Arno, climbs to the famous viewpoint, and brings you back through the neighbourhoods most visitors miss. No entry tickets. No booking required. Just you, the streets, and a city that reveals itself gradually the more you walk it.
It takes a full day. It is not strenuous — Florence is flat on the north bank and gently hilly on the south. You will cover approximately 8–10 km depending on how much you meander. Wear comfortable shoes. Stop for coffee when you need to. That’s the only rule.

I’m Ersilia – architect and travel lover based in France
I help English-speaking travelers plan meaningful trips across Europe, mixing iconic sights with hidden gems and authentic local experiences, all based on places I’ve personally explored.
✨ Browse my Europe guides
✨ Or discover my France travel resources for deeper local insight
Want me to plan your trip? Details here
Before you start: book the inside visits
The walk is free, but the inside visits are not, and they sell out. If you’re planning to go back inside later in your trip, book these as soon as your dates are set:
→ Duomo pass: dome climb, Baptistery, Giotto’s bell tower and museum
→ Palazzo Vecchio hidden passages tour
→ Uffizi Gallery skip-the-line ticket
→ Medici Chapels guided tour
→ Accademia (Michelangelo’s David) timed entry
At a Glance
| What exactly is this post | A self-guided walking tour, with an interactive map that you’ll find at the end |
| Distance | ~8–10 km |
| Duration | Full day (6–8 hours with stops) |
| Cost | ~€15–20 (food, coffee, one optional church entry) |
| Start point | Piazza del Duomo |
| End point | Piazza della Repubblica (10 min walk from the Duomo) |
| Best day | Day 1 of any Florence trip — get your bearings before you book anything |
| What to bring | Comfortable shoes, water, a light layer for churches |
Before You Start, you should know why I wrote this route like this

This walk is not a replacement for visiting Florence’s interiors. It is preparation for them.
After doing this route, you will know where the Palazzo Vecchio is relative to the Duomo. You will understand why the Oltrarno feels different from the north bank.
You will have seen every major facade, crossed every significant bridge, found the viewpoint, walked through the market. When you then go back with your booked entry to the Uffizi or the Medici Chapels, you will already know the city they sit inside. That changes how you experience them.

If you’re spending three days in Florence, do this walk on day one. Save the museums and guided tours for days two and three. → Read: Florence 3-Day Itinerary: How to Structure Your Time Without Losing Your Mind
Where we stayed in Florence
Il Guelfo Bianco, a boutique hotel in a 15th-century palazzo two minutes from the Duomo, with brick arches, hand-painted walls and free prosecco at 5pm. It was the perfect base to start this walk from the cathedral.
Check Il Guelfo Bianco prices for your dates
Want more options at every budget? Read my Florence where to stay guide.
The One day In Florence Walking Route
Stop 1 — Piazza del Duomo: The Facade, the Baptistery, the Campanile

Start at the cathedral. Not inside, just outside, in the piazza, giving yourself time to actually look at it.
The facade of Santa Maria del Fiore is white, green and pink Tuscan marble, a combination that shouldn’t work and absolutely does.
The cathedral took nearly two centuries to build — started in the 13th century, completed in the 15th — and Brunelleschi’s dome was added last, solving an engineering problem that had left the building roofless for forty years while everyone argued about whether it was even possible.
As an architect, I find this detail almost unbearably satisfying. The dome is nearly 45 metres in diameter. No one knew how to build it. Then one person figured it out.
Stand in the piazza and look at all three elements of the complex together: the cathedral, the Baptistery (the octagonal building facing the main entrance, older than the cathedral itself), and the Campanile di Giotto (the bell tower to the right).
The tower is almost 85 metres high, clad in the same coloured marble as the cathedral, with life-size statues of the sixteen prophets on its four facades. It blends Gothic and Renaissance styles — Giotto designed the foundations before his death; other architects continued it in a different register, and somehow the two styles cohere.

You are not going inside any of these today. You will come back.
Today you are learning what they look like from the outside, where they sit in relation to everything else, and which angle makes the dome look most extraordinary. (Answer: from the south, after you cross the Arno. You’ll see what I mean later.)
Practical: The piazza is always busy. If you want a photograph without crowds, come before 8am on a future morning.
Stop 2 — Basilica di San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels Exterior

From the Duomo, walk five minutes northwest to San Lorenzo. This is the Medici family’s parish church. It was their private place of worship before they became the most powerful family in Europe, and eventually their mausoleum.
The exterior of San Lorenzo is famously unfinished.
Michelangelo was commissioned to design the facade in the 16th century; the project was abandoned, and the rough stone has been exposed ever since. It looks like a building mid-construction. It has looked this way for 500 years.

Round the back is the entrance to the Medici Chapels, which is the private mausoleum built with precious stones, gold and marble, concealed behind a facade of unremarkable brick.
The contrast between outside and inside is one of the most dramatic in Florence. I really recommend you to come back with a guide. For now, note the building, note the location, note the market that spreads out around it.
This is also where the Mercato Centrale is — the central market, housed in a beautiful iron and glass structure from the 19th century. The ground floor is the food market: fresh produce, cheese, meat, truffles, local specialities.
If you want to taste something before lunch, this is the place. We tried sausage with truffles on a morning visit and it was good. The leather market is outside on the surrounding streets, but more on that later.
Stop 3 — Piazza Santa Maria Novella and the Basilica Facade

Continue west to Piazza Santa Maria Novella. This is one of the most underrated squares in Florence. The cars are not allowed in,there are several café terraces and most of all, a calm that the more famous squares don’t always have.
It is where I would come for an aperitivo at the end of the afternoon. We actually did this on our second day!
The basilica facade is worth stopping for. Santa Maria Novella is the oldest basilica in Florence, the construction began in 1246. Its green and white marble facade is a Renaissance addition from the 15th century, bearing the coats of arms of the noble families buried inside.

Look for the arms carved into the marble: this was the Florence of competing dynasties, and the church facade was one of the places where wealth announced itself.
Just off this square (and easy to miss because nothing on the outside points to it) is the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

One of the oldest pharmacies in the world, founded by Dominican monks in the 13th century, now a perfume shop and museum. Several rooms of extraordinary painted ceilings, antique bottles, old pharmaceutical equipment.
You can enter for free and it is worth it.
It reminded me of Fragonard in Provence: beautiful building, excellent fragrances, prices that require a significant commitment (bottles from ~€240). I left without buying anything. I don’t regret going.
The thing most people miss: The pharmacy is on Via della Scala, a two-minute walk from the piazza. Save it on your maps before you leave your hotel — the entrance is easy to walk straight past.
Stop 4 — Palazzo Strozzi
Head south towards the river. On the way, you will pass Palazzo Strozzi.
Walk into the courtyard.
The entrance to the courtyard is free and open. What you find inside is a perfect example of 15th-century Renaissance private architecture — the proportions, the colonnaded walkway, the scale of the interior space.
The palace was built for the banker Filippo Strozzi, who wanted something imposing enough to illustrate his power as a Florentine noble.
To build it, more than fifteen existing buildings were demolished. Today it houses the National Institute of the Renaissance and a large exhibition hall, but the courtyard alone is worth the detour.
Stop 5 — Basilica di Santa Trinita and the Porcellino

Continue towards the river and pass through the area around Santa Trinita. The basilica, which was built in the 11th century, with a Renaissance facade added in the 16th, is one of the quieter churches in Florence.
The interior has beautifully decorated chapels with frescoes depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Virgin, painted by artists recognised across Italy.
Worth stepping inside briefly if the doors are open and you have the time. No ticket required.
A few minutes east from here is the Fontana del Porcellino, the famous bronze boar fountain. The sculpture you see is actually a 17th-century copy of a marble original transported from Rome by the Medicis; the original is in the Uffizi.
It became famous recently on social media, as you can clearly see poeple stealing the coin you put into the fountain. A guide explained is this is supposed to happen, at it is how it’s suppossed to work in order to get your luck. It still is a bizarre experience!

None of this detracts from the legend: rub the nose and drop a coin in its mouth, and your wishes will be granted. The nose has been polished smooth by centuries of hands. The nose of the pig in front of you has, I will tell you honestly, been so thoroughly rubbed that it is beginning to lose its original features. Poor animal. Touch it anyway.
The surrounding area has a leather market. I would not recommend buying leather here as the quality from street stalls is inconsistent and returns are impossible. If you want genuine Florentine leather, go to an actual shop.
I can’t advice you which leather shop to choose, but ask your host, most surely they would be able to give you good quality locations!
Stop 6 — Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio

This is the heart of Florence. Give it time.
The piazza is unlike anything else in the city. The buildings around it are all different from one another — the medieval fortress-tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, the graceful open arches of the Loggia dei Lanzi with Renaissance sculptures standing in the open air, the Neptune fountain at one corner, a copy of Michelangelo’s David at another (the original is in the Accademia; the copy has stood here since the 19th century, on the same spot where the original stood for centuries).

The square was built over centuries by competing dynasties and families, each adding their contribution, and the result is a coherence that shouldn’t exist but does.
The Palazzo Vecchio was built in the 14th century as the seat of Florentine government. Cosimo de’ Medici lived here before the family moved to Palazzo Pitti — at which point it became known as the “Old Palace.” The tower is 94 metres high and has looked over this piazza for 700 years.

You are not going inside today — that is for day two of your Florence itinerary, as today we’re only walking around.
Still, if you do one thing inside the Palazzo Vecchio, make it the hidden passages tour. I describe that in full details in my 3-day Florence itinerary.


Palazzo Vecchio Hidden Passages Tour
The best visit we did in Florence, really !
You go through a door in the facade, into secret rooms and staircases, and end up above the Salone dei Cinquecento.
Only possible with a guide, and slots fill up fast.
But today, walk around the piazza slowly. Look at the Loggia dei Lanzi. Look at the sculptures in the open air, they are originals or significant copies, standing without enclosure in the middle of a working square.
Stand at the far end of the piazza and look back at the Palazzo Vecchio facade. This is the Florence that accumulated over centuries rather than being planned.

Stop at Rudì on the piazza for coffee or a drink. We went back three times in three days. The view is beautiful, the quality is genuinely good, and the prices are fair for the location. It is one of those places you find early in a trip and keep returning to.
Stop 7 — The Uffizi Exterior and Corridor to Ponte Vecchio

Walk south from Piazza della Signoria between the two wings of the Uffizi building towards the river.
This passageway — a long, high corridor between the two arms of the U-shaped palace — is one of the finest architectural spaces in Florence, and it is free to walk through.
Look up at the facade details. Look at how the building frames the view of the river ahead.
The Uffizi was built in the 16th century at Cosimo de’ Medici’s request, designed by Giorgio Vasari.
It became a museum when Francesco I de’ Medici dedicated the top floor to the family’s art collection — paintings, jewellery, sculptures — and eventually opened access to guests, then to the people of the city. It is one of the oldest public museums on earth. You will come back inside with a skip-the-line ticket. For now, just walk through.
At the end of the corridor you’ll find the river. And Ponte Vecchio directly to your right. I loved this spot, especially at sunset!
Even though the best light for photos, here, is in the morning. The afternoon light makes it impossible to capture anything!
Stop 8 — Ponte Vecchio

Cross the Ponte Vechio bridg slowly. Take your time.
The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest stone bridge in Europe! It was built in 1345 by the architect Taddeo Gaddi on the site of a series of earlier wooden bridges, all of which had been destroyed by floods.
It is the only bridge in Florence that the German army spared in World War II, when they destroyed every other crossing of the Arno. It was recognised, apparently, as too singular to demolish.
This was always a marchand brighe. Today, the shops on the bridge are jewellers. They have been jewellers since Ferdinand I de’ Medici expelled the butchers and tanners in the 16th century because he couldn’t tolerate the smells from the private corridor that ran above — the Vasari Corridor, connecting the Uffizi to Palazzo Pitti, still visible as the enclosed passage running above the bridge’s shops.

The jewellery is beautiful and very expensive.
What to actually stop for: on the bridge, facing towards Palazzo Pitti, there is a sundial mounted on the wall. It has been there since the 15th century, telling time with its shadow. The majority of visitors walk straight past it. Don’t.
Stop 9 — The Oltrarno
Cross the Ponte Vecchio and you are in the Oltrarno — the neighbourhood on the left bank of the Arno.
The atmosphere changes almost immediately. It is quieter, more residential, less obviously touristic. Antique shops, small artisan workshops, a different quality of street life.
Wander south through the Oltrarno streets towards Palazzo Pitti.
Stop 10 — Palazzo Pitti
The palace is enormous. Deliberately so. Luca Pitti, the banker who commissioned it in 1458 from Brunelleschi, wanted something imposing enough to rival — and ideally intimidate — his political enemy Cosimo de’ Medici.
A century later, the Medicis bought the palace and made it their primary residence, expanding and improving it for two centuries until it became in 1860 the residence of King Victor Emmanuel III.
Today it holds six museums, including the Palatine Gallery, the Gallery of Modern Art, the Costume Gallery, the Silver Museum, and the Porcelain Museum. We didn’t visit the inside in three days. I would need a fourth day, and probably a fifth, to do it properly.
But the exterior alone is one of the most impressive things in Florence: the scale of it, the long rusticated facade, the way it dominates the southern end of the Oltrarno.
Behind the palace, the Boboli Gardens extend up the hill — one of the most important Italian gardens in Europe, laid out with fountains, grottos, and sculptures added over centuries. They are best visited in spring or summer. In February, we passed on it. In May or September, I would not.
Stop 11 — Porta San Miniato and the Climb to the Rose Garden

From Palazzo Pitti, walk east to the Porta San Miniato, a 14th-century gate in what remains of the old city walls.
Unlike most medieval gates, this one has no tower, only a walkway where guards stood to watch over the surrounding area. Pass through it and begin the climb towards the Giardino delle Rose.
The Giardino delle Rose is a panoramic garden connecting the Oltrarno to the Piazzale Michelangelo.
It was designed by Giuseppe Poggi — the same architect who created the Piazzale — and contains a large collection of roses, lemon trees, and a small Japanese garden, a gift from Kyoto, Florence’s twin city.
Even in February, when the roses were not in bloom and the Japanese garden was dormant, locals were here.

Reading on the grass. Sitting on benches. Enjoying the view over the city below. It was one of the most peaceful 20 minutes of the entire trip. In May, when the roses are flowering, I imagine it is something else entirely.
There is no entry fee. Just walk in.
Stop 12 — Piazzale Michelangelo

Continue uphill from the Rose Garden to the Piazzale Michelangelo.
This is the famous view.
Looking north, you see Florence in its entirety: the Duomo and its dome rising above the rooftops, the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio to its left, Santa Croce to the right, the Ponte Vecchio crossing the Arno, the Apennine mountains closing the horizon behind the city.
You have been walking through all of this. From up here, it assembles into a whole.
The Piazzale was created in 1875, when Florence was briefly the capital of Italy, as a tribute to Michelangelo. At its centre stands a bronze copy of the David.

There aren’t coffee places up here, nor restaurants. You can find some cheap coffee at a little touristy kiosk that sells cheap clothes, coffee, water and ice cream. It was a bit of a dissapointment, to be honest!
Come in the late afternoon if you can time it. The light from the west catches the Duomo differently. The crowds thin slightly after 4pm but come back for the sunset. Having walked the city all day, you will look out at it from here with the particular satisfaction of someone who has earned the view.
The thing most people miss: Most visitors photograph from the centre of the Piazzale, standing directly in front of the David copy. The better view of the dome — less obstructed, better framed — is from the eastern end of the terrace, near the steps down towards the Arno. Walk to the far end before you take your photograph.
Stop 13 — Porta San Niccolò and the Descent
Descend from the Piazzale towards the Arno via the steps near the Porta San Niccolò — a 14th-century tower gate built in 1324 to the designs of Arnolfo di Cambio, one of the few surviving remnants of the medieval city walls that were demolished in the 19th century when Florence was being restructured.
You can climb to the top of the tower in summer for another view of the city.
Stop 14 — Ponte alle Grazie: The Best View of Ponte Vecchio

Cross the river via the Ponte alle Grazie, a few minutes east of Ponte Vecchio.
The original bridge here was built in 1237 and once looked like Ponte Vecchio — lined on both sides with small wooden houses containing shops and chapels.
The Germans destroyed it in 1944, along with every other crossing in Florence except the Ponte Vecchio. The rebuilt version is a plain five-arch bridge. Its value is the view it gives you.
From the Ponte alle Grazie, looking west, you see the Ponte Vecchio in its entirety — the bridge, the buildings stacked on it, the Vasari Corridor passing above.
This is the photograph most visitors want and can’t find a good position for while actually standing on the Ponte Vecchio. This is where you take it.
Stop 15 — Santa Croce

From the Ponte alle Grazie, walk north along the east bank to Piazza Santa Croce.
The basilica facade — neo-Gothic, added in the 19th century — faces a large, rectangular piazza that was used historically for jousting tournaments and public events.
The facade resembles Santa Maria Novella in its structure and white marble character, though they were built by competing orders: Santa Croce is Franciscan, Santa Maria Novella is Dominican, and the rivalry between them shaped much of the church-building in medieval Florence.

Today: this is where Michelangelo is buried. And Galileo. And Dante (cenotaph — his bones are in Ravenna, but Florence claimed him anyway). And nearly 300 other figures of Italian intellectual and artistic life.

The exterior is free to admire from the piazza.
If you want to go inside — and I recommend it — entry is ~€8 and an audio guide is ~€6. Unlike the Duomo and the Uffizi, there are rarely long queues here. My sister visited in August and said it wasn’t crowded. You can decide on the day.
→ Full details on visiting Santa Croce are in the main Florence guide
Stop 16 — The Bargello

Walk north from Santa Croce towards the Bargello. You will see it before you recognise it as it looks like a smaller version of the Palazzo Vecchio, with a similar crenellated tower and medieval facade.
The Bargello was built in the 13th century as the seat of the magistrate responsible for executive and judicial power. It became a prison.
It is now a museum of Renaissance sculpture, featuring Donatello, Michelangelo, Cellini, among others. The building has kept all its elegance and grandeur from its former life. Worth a visit on a longer trip; on a single walking day, the exterior is enough.
Stop 17 — Orsanmichele

A few minutes northwest of the Bargello, on Via dei Calzaiuoli, is Orsanmichele.
It looks like a grain warehouse. This is because it was one.
Built in the 14th century on the site of an older grain market, it was expanded into a church while keeping the same structure — which means it has two upper floors that continued functioning as a grain store for years after the ground floor became a place of worship.
The exterior niches contain sculptures by Donatello, Ghiberti, and Verrocchio — significant Renaissance works displayed in the open air on a building that most people walk past without recognising what it is.

That is, architecturally, a very Florence situation.
Stop 18 — Piazza della Repubblica

End the walk at Piazza della Repubblica, five minutes northwest of Orsanmichele.
This is the site of the ancient Roman forum — the heart of Florentia, the Roman city that became Florence.
In the 19th century, when Florence was briefly Italy’s capital, the entire area was demolished and rebuilt in a grand 19th-century style: wide arcades, a triumphal arch marking the entrance, the proportions of civic ambition.
Only a single Roman column in the centre of the square survived the redevelopment, a solitary witness to everything that was there before.
Today it is a meeting place for Florentines — cafés under the arcades, music sometimes in the evenings, a particular quality of everyday life that the more touristed squares don’t always have.
A good place to sit down, order something, and feel the day settle.
You are about a 10-minute walk from the Duomo. You have seen Florence.
Food and Coffee Stops Along the Route
Morning start: Pick up your first sandwich at All’Antico Vinaio on Via de’ Neri, a few minutes east of the Uffizi. Arrive before noon — the queue grows fast. Order the Sanremo (mozzarella spread, pesto, dried tomatoes, ham on focaccia). Eat it in Piazza di San Marco nearby.
Mid-morning coffee: Fiaschetteria Bar Caffè near the Medici Chapels — full of locals, wood stools outside, a view of the street market. Come back at night for the limoncello spritz.

After Ponte Vecchio: Stop at Gino’s Bakery for the cannoli. €3.50, every flavour. Small and adorable. I have been thinking about them since.

Piazza della Signoria: Rudì for coffee or a drink with a view over the square. We came back three times. Take it as a recommendation.
Late afternoon at the Piazzale: There are several café terraces. The coffee is average and the view is the point.

Dinner: If you’re doing this as day one of a longer trip, book Il Grande Nuti Trattoria for the evening — handmade pasta, the tiramisu is not optional. Book in advance. → Full restaurant guide in the main Florence destination guide
Practical Notes for the Walk

Start time: 9am gives you enough light and the best chance of a quieter Duomo piazza before the crowds fully arrive. The walk ends naturally in the late afternoon.
What to wear: Comfortable walking shoes — not heels, not new shoes you haven’t broken in. The Oltrarno side involves a moderate uphill climb. Nothing strenuous, but you will notice it.
Churches: If you step inside any church on this route, shoulders and knees must be covered. Carry a light layer or scarf. Most churches provide shawls to borrow, but easier to have your own.

The interactive map of this itinerary
I have the full route mapped with every stop, all the food spots, and the walking order marked. → Open the Florence walking tour map Save it to your phone before you leave your hotel.
What this walk does not include: Museum interiors, guided tours, the Galleria dell’Accademia (David), the Boboli Gardens. These need separate tickets and time. → Read the full Florence destination guide for how to plan those visits
Where we stayed in Florence
Il Guelfo Bianco, a boutique hotel in a 15th-century palazzo two minutes from the Duomo, with brick arches, hand-painted walls and free prosecco at 5pm. It was the perfect base to start this walk from the cathedral.
Check Il Guelfo Bianco prices for your dates
Want more options at every budget? Read my Florence where to stay guide.
Prefer to do this walk with a guide?
If you’d rather have someone tell you the stories as you go, a small-group walking tour covers most of these stops in a few hours. See the best-rated Florence walking tours.
And if Michelangelo’s David is on your list, book your Accademia ticket first — it sells out furthest in advance.

















